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Inside Ehime: A 3-Day Itinerary That Captures the Romance of Travel
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Ehime, a prefecture in the Shikoku region of Japan, offers the intrepid traveler a chance to recapture the romance of travel through tradition, culture, and food! This travelog features three locations with great places to visit, accommodations, and dining options.
Written by
Travel writer and assistant editor at MATCHA with extensive travel around the Osaka, Kyoto, and Wakayama areas. A Kansai insider who knows their Akashiyaki from their Takoyaki, Iain enjoys getting authentic stories from traditional craftspeople and interesting creators. Particularly fond of temples and shrines, Iain delves deep into the crossroads of tradition and modernity in his eight-plus years living and writing about Japan.
Exploring Ehime
The cities and towns of Ehime, a prefecture in Japan's Shikoku region, combine traditional charm with enterprising locals looking to showcase the beauty of the region to the world.
On a 3-day itinerary specially curated by experts on the region at MATCHA, I was privileged to see so many wonderful sights and interact with local personalities. This travelogue introduces three sights, a restaurant, and two guest houses that show off the beauty and history of the region.
Ehime: A 3-Day Itinerary
Day One: Ozu
1. Bansenso: See Ehime’s Close Ties with Southeast Asia
2. Ozu Redbrick Hall: Explore a Historic Bank and Sample Local Goods
3. Hatagoya Muchu: Stay in a Converted Historic Shopfront
Day Two: Omishima
4. Oyamazumi Shrine and Museum: See Weapons Wielded by Samurai Legends
5. Co-Living & Cafe SANDO: Live Like a Local Islander
Day Three: Matsuyama
6. Matsuyama Castle Ninomaru Historical Garden
7. Chunk at Matsuyama Station: Sweets for the Road
1. Bansenso in Ozu: See Ehime’s Close Ties with Southeast Asia
A study in architectural time travel, Bansenso is a mansion that has been open to the public for just four years. As you stroll through its hallowed halls, you can admire the influences of both Ehime and the tropical islands of the Philippines reflected in its ornate architecture.
Originally built as the family residence for lumber tycoons who imported tropical wood, the house beautifully combines traditional Japanese aesthetics with techniques and furniture from the early 1800s.
Walking through the house, I felt as though I had stepped into an elaborate period drama of that era. The interplay of light and shadow throughout the interiors creates a cinematic atmosphere, making it hard not to imagine what life was like as one shuttled between Japan and the Philippine islands during that time.
Tucked away in a quiet corner of Ozu town, visitors may have difficulty finding this architectural gem, but it is well worth the visit to enjoy the serene tranquility of its grounds.
Hotels near Bansenso
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2. Ozu Redbrick Hall: Explore a Historic Bank and Sample Local Goods
Originally a historic bank, the Ozu Redbrick Hall appears to be a monument caught in a different time and place.
Once a focal point for industry and wealth during Ozu’s heyday, its striking burnt orange exterior is surprising when you turn a corner and encounter it.
As you explore the warehouse, keep an eagle eye out for unique red bricks that are either etched with a date or bear the preserved fingerprints of the person who laid them!
The second floor houses a charming café, elegantly appointed with white tablecloths and cozy doilies, making it an ideal spot for afternoon tea or a leisurely brunch.
On the first floor, you'll find a shop offering artisan-crafted goods from the region. Here, you can discover gorgeous ceramics, unique jewelry, and lovingly crafted paper goods, among other delightful treasures!
Although they make great gifts for others you might end up wanting to keep them for yourself.
Hotels near Ozu Red Brick Museum
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3. Hatagoya Muchu Guest House: Stay in a Converted Historic Shopfront
Helping to revitalize the historic district, a number of shops, restaurants, and open-air spaces have recently opened. Staying at Hatagoya Muchu places you in the heart of the district, allowing you to enjoy all its charms at a leisurely pace.
At first glance, it’s almost a "blink and you’ll miss it" situation, as the guesthouse wonderfully blends in with the historic facades of the surrounding buildings.
Downstairs, a cozy café serves hearty meals, delicious coffee, and desserts until the late afternoon. Upstairs, several spacious quarters accommodate up to four guests in each room.
As you sit in low-to-the-floor chairs on tatami flooring, the guesthouse offers a warm and inviting atmosphere for travelers.
I highly recommend gathering around the low coffee table to discuss the day's adventures with fellow travelers, or to reflect on your experiences in a postcard or journal if you are visiting solo.
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4. Oyamazumi Shrine and Museum: See the Weapons Wielded by Samurai Legends
For any enthusiast of samurai history, Oyamazumi Shrine Shrine and its museum are a hidden treasure trove of legendary weapons and artifacts from a bygone era.
The shrine served as a pilgrimage site for warriors who offered their weapons in sacrifice for divine protection. As a result, the museum is home to a remarkable collection of weaponry tied to samurai legends, including the arms of three legendary warriors and the armor of Tomoe Gozen, a female warrior often referred to as “the Joan of Arc of Japan.”
A walk through the shrine grounds in the early morning, enveloped in the serene silence, offers a true Shinto experience, allowing for gentle communion with nature.
As you circle the mighty tree with its beautifully twisted, gnarled branches in the courtyard, you’ll arrive at the main worship hall, built in the traditional thatched roof style characteristic of Japan's oldest religious sites.
After you’ve spent time connecting with the divine, be sure to visit the historical museums on the shrine grounds. You might uncover hidden connections between the shrine and notable figures from Japanese history that you recognize!
Hotels near Oyamazumi Shrine
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5. Co-Living & Cafe SANDO: Live Like a Local Islander
Nestled at the beginning of Omishima's main thoroughfare, Co-Living & Cafe SANDO combines modern comforts with a taste of local island life.
As you walk past the cozy interior, the aroma of comforting food and freshly brewed coffee creates an inviting atmosphere for weary travelers to rest.
While the café welcomes everyone, the guesthouse entrance is tucked away along an idyllic garden path at the back. After exploring the numerous shrines and temples scattered throughout the area or enjoying a vigorous bike ride across the stunning cable-stayed bridges, Sando serves as a much-needed welcoming home base.
The rooms are designed in a minimalist yet comforting style, and the extensive collection of manga and board games available in the common room on the third floor enhances the feeling of returning home to a friendly space.
For visitors who never want to leave, it's worth noting that plans are in place to build a more permanent sharehouse nearby, making Sando an even more attractive destination!
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6. Matsuyama Castle Ninomaru Historical Garden
Nestled into the hillside beneath the imposing Matsuyama Castle, the Ninomaru Historical Garden is a tranquil oasis ideal for both couples and solo travelers.
Known as a lover’s lane, this garden gained its name from archaeological evidence of a blossoming romance found on the grounds. Today, it remains a popular spot for couples eager to capture unforgettable wedding photos.
The garden's first section invites visitors to stroll through its elaborate water features, where the soothing sound of running water nourishes the surrounding lush greenery, providing a calming retreat in Ehime’s largest city.
Explore the verdant citrus grove and discover the diverse varieties of citrus fruits cultivated there, or take a shady walk around the serene ponds. Be sure to stop by a uniquely shaped bamboo pipe; when you place your ear to it, you’ll hear plaintive notes reminiscent of a traditional Japanese musical instrument.
Hotels near Matsuyama Castle
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7. Chunk at Matsuyama Station: Get Yourself a Cookie for the Road
They say "sweets can improve your life," and in all honesty, Chunk's motto truly lives up to its reputation!
Specializing in Western sweets lovingly made in Ehime with local ingredients, Chunk’s baked goods are a delightful pitstop while exploring Matsuyama City.
From springy carrot cakes infused with candied ginger to luscious brownies oozing with chocolate, you'll find treats that perfectly complement their excellent selection of coffees or refreshing local mikan orange juice!
Whether you’re heading to experience the wonderful sights of Ozu or preparing to say goodbye to the prefecture as you travel to the airport, you will inevitably pass through Matsuyama Station.
Chunk is a well-deserved stop on your journey through the beauty and charm of Ehime.
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An Invitation to Explore Ehime
There is something truly special about traveling through Ehime. From watching the citrus orchards blur past the window of a limited express train to experiencing the vibrant blend of tradition and modernity that defines Ehime today, you are sure to find something that captures your interest.
So, take a moment to slow down, catch your breath, and appreciate the sights. Embrace a way of traveling that fosters a deeper connection to the places you visit—something that goes beyond just collecting happy snapshots by the end of your journey!
Read also
Travel writer and assistant editor at MATCHA with extensive travel around the Osaka, Kyoto, and Wakayama areas. A Kansai insider who knows their Akashiyaki from their Takoyaki, Iain enjoys getting authentic stories from traditional craftspeople and interesting creators. Particularly fond of temples and shrines, Iain delves deep into the crossroads of tradition and modernity in his eight-plus years living and writing about Japan.
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