Gourmet Seafood and Famous Places in the Port Town of Onahama, Iwaki
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Iwaki, a city in Fukushima Prefecture, is surrounded by the ocean, mountains, and untouched nature. In particular, the port town of Onahama has plenty of attractions, including a unique shrine with a blue torii gate and delicious gourmet seafood.
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Tokyo, Japan
Must-Visit Locations in Onahama, Iwaki City
Onahama, which faces the Pacific Ocean in the southeastern area of Iwaki, Fukushima Prefecture, was damaged by the tsunami during the Great East Japan Earthquake on March 11, 2011. Now, revival efforts are an ongoing process with the area becoming lively once more.
In this article, we'll introduce recommended places to visit and excellent food in the port town of Onahama.
A Rare, Whimsical Blue Torii Gate!
Onahama Suwa Shrine by the Ocean
Photo taken at Onahama Suwa Shrine
Onahama Suwa Shrine is home to a rare, blue-colored torii gate.
Onahama is known for its fishing and seafood processing industries. Since the shrine is widely worshipped by those in the fishing industry, the torii was painted in the color of the ocean.
Photo taken at Onahama Suwa Shrine
There are several ocean-related things on the shrine grounds. For example, Anchor Mound is where anchors from ships are brought as offerings while Turtle Rock is dedicated to sea turtles.
The annual festival held in May is a must-see. During the festivities, the local men combine forces to carry a two-ton portable shrine and parade it through the town in hopes of a big catch.
Thanks to Everyone’s Support
Yoake Ichiba Market: A Beacon in Revival Efforts
Photo taken at Yoake Ichiba
Yoake Ichiba ("Sunrise Market") is a food spot that can be reached in just three minutes on foot from JR Iwaki Station. There are over ten restaurants serving kushiyaki (grilled skewers), Italian dishes, and regional cuisine at an izakaya (Japanese pub) in a small alleyway. Their slogan is “every night sees the dawn.”
Restaurants that suffered during the disaster banded together to renovate what was once Shirogane Alley, a shuttered shopping street. Shirogane Alley, which had little foot traffic even before the earthquake, was transformed into an all-new space while retaining its retro appeal.
Photo taken at Yoake Ichiba
The alley and its striking yellow lanterns exude a somewhat nostalgic atmosphere.
Overcoming Difficulties with Hometown Love
Gyosaitei: Sharing the Delicious Flavor of Fukushima Fish
Photo taken at Gyosaitei
Waraku Gyosaitei is a Japanese restaurant in Yoake Ichiba. Mr. Seiji Kitago, the owner, studied at a ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) in Shinjuku, Tokyo. He later realized his dream of opening a restaurant in his hometown of Hisanohama, Iwaki City.
However, he lost his restaurant and family to the tsunami that followed the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake three years after its opening. By chance, Mr. Kitago learned of the plans for Yoake Ichiba and decided to start over again from scratch.
After reopening, he was temporarily forced to use ingredients sourced outside of the prefecture because it was impossible to obtain seafood within Iwaki. In turn, complicated feelings arose within him.
A long time passed until the distribution of local fish resumed. Mr. Kitago was now able to serve dishes made with delicious, local fish to his customers.
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Photo taken at Gyosaitei. Slices of katsuo (skipjack tuna) sashimi
A highly recommended item at the restaurant is the katsuo (skipjack tuna) sashimi. The fish travels up north to the coast of Tokiwa in the summer when the cold Oyashio current and the warm Kuroshio current converge, resulting in tasty seasonal skipjack tuna caught in Iwaki.
Katsuo is easily pungent due to oxidization once it comes into contact with the air. Thanks to the shortened transportation times since Iwaki is near the fish market, you can enjoy fresh slices of sashimi.
Photo taken at Gyosaitei. Simmered brown hakeling
This simmered dish is made with a local fish called donko or brown hakeling. The scientific name is ezoiso-ainame (Physiculus maximowiczi). Although this fish (*) may not be sold at supermarkets, it has delicate, soft meat and glossy skin that whets the appetite. It’s also easy to eat because it has a few small bones. Make sure to enjoy it with the gelatin-packed fish sauce.
*During seabed inspections routinely held throughout Fukushima, radioactive cesium-137 near the standard limit of 100Bq/kg was detected in 2011 about 40 kilometers from land. However, that number is currently less than 1Bq/kg and has stayed below the standard limit for the past several years. It is reportedly safe to consume the local seafood (*according to monitoring results from the Nuclear Regulation Authority).
Gyosaitei’s Greeneye Tempura
When talking about the most famous fish in Iwaki, it has to be the greeneye. According to Mr. Kitago, “The typical size of this fish is about a shishamo smelt. But here, you can eat greeneye that are really large!”
We recommend having the fish as tempura. The fragrance and sweetness from the crispy batter and soft meat are so delicious that it keeps locals coming back for more.
Restaurant business hours are subject to change in the event of a declared state of emergency or other reasons.
A Place of Relaxation for Visitors and Locals!
Iwaki Lalamew: The Local Tourism and Product Center
Photo taken at Iwaki Lalamew
Iwaki Lalamew is a shopping complex and one of the busiest places in Iwaki. The name comes from the mew gull, a nickname for the common gull. In fact, the bird is the facility's mascot and the city's official bird.
Inside, visitors will find a seafood market, souvenir shops, and sushi restaurants. On the second floor is the "mew-seum" (museum) that shares Iwaki’s history and the city’s road to recovery.
Walk on the promenade that stretches along the ocean and you’ll arrive near two spots. Aquamarine Fukushima is the largest aquarium focused on environmental education in the Tohoku region. There's also the AEON MALL Iwaki-Onahama, a shopping mall.
This Will Grab Your Attention!
Shingosan Kaisen: A Seafood Cracker Bigger than Your Face!
Photo taken at Shingosan Kaisen
Let’s have fun choosing souvenirs and getting food at Iwaki Lalamew! On the first floor, Shingosan Kaisen has displays filled with Onahama specialties and souvenirs.
Photo taken at Shingosan Kaisen
You’ll want to give the gigantic senbei (rice cracker) a try. It’s made and grilled right in front of you! You can choose from three options: octopus, squid, or greeneye, the Iwaki specialty. This snack is so popular that it's sometimes sold out by the afternoon.
Photo taken at Shingosan Kaisen
Your selected seafood ingredient will be mixed with wheat flour into a batter and sandwiched between two heavy griddles. Then you’ll wait about a minute and a half. Once cooked with pressure and heat, the senbei cracker will come out bigger than your face. Bite into it and the seafood’s natural taste and slight bitterness will immediately hit your senses.
Enjoy this snack while admiring the ocean in front of Iwaki Lalamew.
An Appetizing Smell!
Kato Shoten: Eat Broiled Seafood at a Market
Photo taken at Kato Shoten
Kato Shoten, located near Iwaki Lalamew’s central entrance, is popular for homemade dried fish and freshly broiled seafood. Many visitors stop in their tracks when beckoned by the cheerful shouts and appetizing smells.
Photo taken at Iwaki Lalamew
Pictured above is their tuna and skipjack tuna kushiyaki grilled over charcoal. On a sunny day, we recommend sitting on the outdoor terrace. Enjoy Iwaki’s unique flavors as you bask in the warm sunlight and feel a pleasant sea breeze. It’s quite a luxurious moment!
A Trip to Onahama to Experience the Bounty of the Sea
Photo taken at Iwaki Lalamew
Onahama, found along the coastal area of Iwaki City, has plenty of attractions where you can experience the history, culture, and energy of a fishing port. This, of course, includes enjoying fresh seafood and other bounties of the sea. Why not discover new charms of this town that is dedicated to restoration efforts after the earthquake?
Business hours and days of spots introduced in this article are subject to change in the event of a declared state of emergency or other reasons.
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Written by Lin
Sponsored by Fukushima Prefecture
Made in cooperation with Onahama Suwa Shrine, Yoake Ichiba, Waraku Gyosaitei, and Iwaki Lalamew
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Tokyo, Japan
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