Exploring Ozu, Ehime: Spend the Day Unveiling the Hidden Gems

• Table of Contents
• Re-Discovering the Enchanting Charm of Ozu, Ehime
• What is "THE OZU PASSPORT"?
• How I Spent the Day in Ozu, Ehime's Old Castle Town
• How to get to Ozu

Re-Discovering the Enchanting Charm of Ozu, Ehime

The term "hidden gem" tends to be thrown around in Japanese travel writing, often used to describe historic towns not on the typical tourist routes. And while I myself am guilty of using this term one too many times, I can wholeheartedly say that Ozu City lives up to that reputation. 

Located in Ehime Prefecture along the Hijikawa River, Ozu was once a prosperous trading hub during the Meiji and Taisho eras (1868 – 1912 and 1912  – 1926 respectively). However, with the advent of cars, the need for the river as a primary trading route decreased, leading to a decline in Ozu's population and the deterioration of its once magnificent structures.

Thankfully, in 2018, a collaborative effort was launched between the city, businesses, and a local bank to save Ozu's historic buildings. By promoting local work and small businesses, the city brought back prosperity and created a vibrant community for both long-time and new residents.

The first time I visited Ozu was in early 2020 on a solo trip, stopping overnight at Ozu’s historic buildings-turned-accommodations of Nipponia Hotel. Garyu Sanso, Ozu’s brilliant architectural masterpiece, enamored me so much that I basically dragged my partner off course from a road trip just to show him this amazing building.

On my third visit to Ozu three years later, I was struck by the remarkable transformation of this town into a thriving and dynamic community. Ozu's streets bustled with the energy and activity of locals and visitors I didn’t remember from my previous visits. 

What made Ozu a remarkable success story was the perfect blend of revitalizing old structures and the infusion of local businesses, all in line with Ozu's philosophy of sustainability and rebirth. By showcasing unique regional products and incorporating locally grown produce into their menus, these businesses helped preserve Ozu's exceptional architecture, creating an inviting destination for residents, visitors, and workers alike. 

As a result of this work, Ozu received the prestigious Culture and Tradition award at the Green Destinations Story Awards, inspiring Nipponia Hotel, one of the city’s most prominent tenants, to create the OZU PASSPORT, aimed at encouraging exploration of Ozu's expanding store network.

What is "THE OZU PASSPORT"?

If you are staying at NIPPONIA HOTEL, THE OZU PASSPORT will be useful. THE OZU PASSPORT really helped me see the best spots in the city during my stay.

The guide lists all the 17 businesses (and counting) that are part of the PASSPORT, which offers exclusive deals and discounts to its visitors. By simply registering as a friend through the LINE app, you can unlock amazing discounts, special gifts, and exceptional hospitality at participating stores and restaurants in Ozu. 

How I Spent the Day in Ozu, Ehime's Old Castle Town

Although I could have relied on digital resources, I preferred to use the paper OZU PASSPORT guide to choose my starting point for exploring the local shops, restaurants, and bars that have emerged since my previous visit. 

While more than a day is needed to experience everything Ozu offers, I highly recommend spending at least two to three days in this charming city to make the most of it.

Despite the time constraint, I was able to visit some impressive places while exploring Ozu's old town on foot. Here are some of my favorite places that I recommend visiting:

1.Go Clothing Shopping at Murakami-tei House

When I first saw the Murakami-tei storefront, I was immediately intrigued by its traditional kominka storefront. This building is housed within a 170-year-old folk house from the Edo period and serves as a place where you can find a merchandise and clothing store, a cafe, and a gallery, all under one roof.

I had a lovely chat with the owner of the stylish Murakami-tei house. She told me that she had been admiring the building for years, and when the opportunity arose to buy it, she jumped at the chance. Her love for fashion and art helped her transform the place into a cozy and welcoming space that anyone can enjoy. Now, the Murakami-tei is not just a cafe, clothing store, and workspace but also has a gallery corridor that hosts exhibitions by artists.

I even got to see her studio upstairs, where the owner weaves her beautiful scarves. If you visit, I highly recommend taking a coffee break and sipping some delicious coffee from the cafe while sitting in the seating area that overlooks the Japanese garden and the white-faced storehouse in the inner courtyard. 

2. Sample Japanese Craft Beer at Garyu Brewing

I'm a craft beer enthusiast who is always on the lookout to try out new beer varieties, I couldn’t pass up a chance to visit Garyu Brewing. Over a century ago, this brick warehouse played a vital role in Ozu's silk trade by storing raw silk threads that were transported to the rest of Japan and the world during the peak of trade. 

Today, the red brick warehouse has been renovated and transformed into Garyu Brewery, where they brew their collection of small-batch beers on-site. They also have a tap room designed like an old-school English pub, serving IPAs, pale ales, Belgian ales, and saisons, along with sandwiches and a limited night menu.

Once you order your beer, take it to the second floor, where the magic happens. The atmosphere is like an enchanted Alice in Wonderland vibe for beer drinkers, styled and inspired by early 20th-century English furniture, with overhanging dry flowers and chandeliers. Remember to look up and find that angel chandelier when you visit!

As for beer sampling, the brewery's Silk Ale, incorporating silk powder, was too intriguing for me to pass up. True to its name, it had a silky smooth flavor. Even now, I'm kicking myself for not buying a few bottles to take home with me.

And the best part? Ozu is a walkable city, so you can enjoy a few delicious craft beers without worrying about driving.

3. Take a Nostalgic Journey into Retro Japan at Ozu's Akarengakan

Let’s go from one brick building to another to Ozu’s Akarengakan. Also known as the Ozu Red Brick Hall, it was constructed during the Meiji period as the Ozu Commercial Bank, unusual for its use of Western red brick exterior walls and Japanese tiles on the roof.

This is another great spot for local shopping, specializing in unique home products and jewelry sourced from the region's raw materials. For instance, their pearl jewelry is made using pearls from nearby Uwajima City, while their other products include washi paper, Tobe-yaki porcelain, citrus toothpaste, and even silk cocoon accessories.

My favorite, though, was the Showa museum around the corner. Pokopen Yokocho is a compact space that recreates the atmosphere of the Showa period during the post-war era (1926-1989), showcasing various exhibits representing life during that time. 

Perhaps it was a past life or all those Showa movies I watched that sparked that retro-Japan nostalgia, but I deeply admire the sentimentality of visiting a well-curated museum that showcases the period's daily life objects and retro music. 

4. Unagi no Nedoko

While Unagi no Nedoko place isn’t on the list on the OZU PASSPORT Passport, I couldn’t pass up a chance to highlight such a neat store. Unagi no Nedoko, meaning ‘bed for an eel,’ refers to the unique architectural design that describes the narrow front and deep interiors of Kyoto’s merchant houses. 

Unlike Kyoto’s traditional machiya storefronts, however, this Unagi no Nedoko is located within a renovated hospital built in the early Showa era. While the main Unagi no Nedoko branch is located in Kyushu’s Fukuoka, this one in Ozu is the only one showcasing Ehime and Setouchi (referring to the prefectures surrounding the Seto Inland Sea) regional products where daily necessities meet timeless artistry from the Shikoku and Setouchi regions.

From Imabari towels with a 120-year-old heritage to gloves from Kagawa prefecture and indigo dyeing from Tokushima, I found items that could easily fit the needs of today's stylish individual while embracing the legacy of Japanese craftsmanship.

They also have an extensive collection of Monpe, inspired by the work pants for miners in America, used for everyday wear for people in agricultural work, and brought into everyday street culture wear.

My traveling companion and I had a hard time pulling ourselves away, spending a bit more money than we had anticipated. But with this many stylish items, it’s impossible not to leave with a few purchases.

How to get to Ozu

Even while being on Shikoku, Japan’s least visited island, Ozu is, in fact, easy to access. If you’re coming in by train from Matsuyama City, Ehime and Shikoku’s largest city, you can reach Ozu in about 40 minutes.

If you're planning to travel from Hiroshima to Matsuyama City, the most efficient ferry to take is the Super Jet. It takes less than 70 minutes to get from Hiroshima Port to Matsuyama Tourist Port Terminal (Matsuyama Kanko Port). From there, you can walk or take a bus to Takahama Station. From Takahama Station, take a train to Otemachi Station. Lastly, walk to Matsuyama Station, and you will arrive at your destination within 40 minutes.

Explore the Best of Ozu Old Town on a Walking Tour

To sum up, Ozu is an undiscovered treasure trove just waiting to be explored. Although I have only shared information about four places, there are still many more hidden gems to unearth in this charming town. With the increasing number of trendy and locally-minded businesses, you might even stumble upon more than I mentioned. I hope my recommendations have piqued your interest in Ehime's true hidden gem!