[Yamagata Prefecture] A complete guide to Hijiori Onsen full of retro charm ~Tourist spots, accommodation, access, etc.~

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Have you ever heard of the word "Touji" (hot spring cure)? It may not be as familiar to people today as it is to people today. We will introduce you to "Hijiori Onsen," a hot spring resort in Yamagata Prefecture where you can enjoy a different kind of experience from your usual hot spring trip, wher...

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National hot spring resorts are designated by the Minister of the Environment under the Hot Springs Act as healthy hot spring resorts where the benefits of hot spring use are expected to be sufficient. 79 hot spring resorts have been designated nationwide (as of October 2024). National hot spring resorts are selected based on the following criteria. 1. Conditions regarding the quality and volume of hot spring water (1) The source of the hot spring water used must be a therapeutic spring. (2) The hot spring water used must have an abundant volume of water. The standard volume of water flow must be 0.5 liters per minute or more per hot spring user. 2. Conditions regarding the environment of the hot spring resort (1) The hot spring is suitable as a resort from the perspective of the natural environment, townscape, history, climate, culture, etc. (2) A plan for the placement of doctors who can provide guidance on proper hot spring use and health management from a medical perspective, or a plan for the placement or training policy of personnel who can provide guidance on bathing methods, etc. in cooperation with the doctors, must be established. (3) Appropriate efforts will be made to protect hot spring resources, manage the hygiene of hot springs, promote public use of hot springs, and take into consideration the elderly and disabled, etc. (4) Enhanced efforts to prevent disasters.

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Easy to get to from Tokyo! How to get there

From Tokyo by Shinkansen

Take the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station and get off at JR Shinjo Station (approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes).

When you exit JR Shinjo Station, there is a bus stop in the rotary, so get on the village bus "Hijiori Yukemuri Line Hijiori Onsen bound." The bus sign is here.

The timetable is only written in Japanese and there are few trains, so it's best to check in advance.
If you have a long wait, there is a waiting area inside the station, so please feel free to use it.
The ride takes about 60 minutes, and you will get off at the final stop, "Hijiori Onsen Waiting Room."

Payment is by deferred payment and cash only, so be sure to have some ready for your trip home.
The one-way fare is 600 yen and the round trip fare is 1200 yen, but if you purchase a round-trip ticket in advance, you can ride for 1100 yen, so it is recommended. Please refer to the following for details.

Check round-trip ticket purchase details and timetable

Take a taxi from Ginzan Onsen

You can also access it by taxi from the popular tourist spot, Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture. Please check the link below for plans for going by taxi.

Hijiori Onsen, where the Showa retro atmosphere remains

The legend goes that "Once upon a time, an old monk who broke his elbow soaked in this hot spring, and the wound healed instantly." Hijiori Onsenkyo is located at the bottom of a caldera formed by a volcanic eruption in Okura Village, Yamagata Prefecture. Due to the efficacy of the hot springs and the ideal environment for health care, it has also been designated as a national health resort .

This quiet hot spring area with a retro Showa era feel is one of the areas with the heaviest snowfalls in the country in winter. In summer, the hot spring town is dotted with painted lanterns depicting the seasonal feature "Hijiori no Hi" (Lights of Hijiori). There are also other attractions such as the tangible cultural property "Hijiori Dam", the new symbol "Hijiori Kibou Ohashi Bridge", and the majestic "Yonkamura Rice Terraces" nearby, making this a small village with plenty to see all year round.

For more information on the benefits of Hijiori Onsen and recommended hot springs, please check out this article.

Can hot springs cure illnesses? The appeal of hot springs

The best way to enjoy Hijiori Onsen, which was founded 1200 years ago, is to have a therapeutic bath. Hijiori Onsen is one of the few places where the therapeutic bath atmosphere still remains.

In fact, toji and hot spring trips are slightly different. On the one hand, a hot spring trip involves soaking in hot springs for one or two nights to relieve the fatigue of daily life and sightseeing in hot spring resorts, whereas toji involves a long-term stay in a hot spring for the purpose of treating a specific illness. In the past, people lived an agricultural lifestyle in harmony with nature, and many people would take a break during the farming off-season, which is why toji resorts developed.

Hijiori Onsen is full of charm. Here are some must-see sights!

【walk】

Jizo storehouse
The legendary site of the discovery of Hijiori Onsen.
The path from the hot spring town to Jizokura is a bit rough in places, and there is a theory that the monk in the legend fell from here and broke his elbow.
A hall has been set up in the cave where the monk is said to have trained, and he is worshipped as the god of matchmaking, fertility, and business prosperity.

Check out the details of Jizokura

Hijiori Dam, Gensen Park
It is designated as a registered tangible cultural property, and you can get up close to the impressive dam.
It is closed during the winter due to snow, but is lit up on the first and third Saturdays of June, July, September, and October, creating a fantastical atmosphere.

Check out the details of Hijiori Dam and Gensen Park

Former Hijiori Post Office Building
It is located right in the middle of Hijiori Onsen town and is also a popular photo spot.
If you look closely at the cute exterior, you will see the post office mark on the window bars.

Check out the details of the Former Hijiori Post Office Building

Morning Market
The morning market, a specialty of Hijiori Onsen, is run by local women and sells fresh vegetables and side dishes from Okura Village, as well as souvenirs unique to Hijiori. It is closed during the winter due to snow, but at other times it opens around 5:30am.

Check the details of the morning market

【Eat and Drink】

Soba restaurant Kotobukiya
If you're going to have lunch, I recommend Kotobukiya.
This soba restaurant is popular with locals and has a veranda where you can enjoy your meal while looking out over the Dozan River.

The soba noodles are "freshly ground, freshly made, and freshly boiled" and are made with Mogamiwase, which is used in 40% of Yamagata Prefecture. The mountain vegetable soba noodles, which are popular overseas due to their distinctive fragrance and sweetness, are thick, chewy, and extremely satisfying to eat. The Hijiori style is to sprinkle shichimi (seven-spice powder) directly on the soba noodles. The menu is extensive, and the grilled fried tofu known as "zabuton" is crispy on the outside and fragrant, making it an addictive dish. They use tofu made in Hijiori.

Soba Restaurant Kotobukiya Official Website

Kaneyama store
At Kaneyama Shoten, which sells local sake, souvenirs, food, and daily necessities, you can enjoy "Kakuuchi," a sake tasting session where you can compare different types of sake.

If you order a sake tasting set at the drinking space in one corner of the shop, you can choose three types of sake from a wide variety of varieties. It's fun to consult with the staff and choose a seasonal sake or one that suits your taste.

Kaneyama Shoten Official Website

【stay】

Kindness Inn Moon Viewing
This traditional Japanese inn, located right in front of the Dozan River, has regular guests from Shanghai, as well as guests from Taiwan and Hong Kong, making it a safe place for tourists visiting Japan.

The hot springs are an indoor bath and an open-air bath with a view, which is rare in Hijiori Onsen town, and there is also a free private hot spring in the annex. The source of Hijiori Onsen contains carbonated water, so you can expect to have warm and smooth skin in no time.

The meals are Hijiori style, featuring a variety of ingredients such as wild vegetables and tofu harvested in Hijiori, Yamagata's specialty potato stew, and Yamagata beef. Both dinner and breakfast are sumptuous and sure to leave you very satisfied!!

The inn also has free Wi-Fi, accepts credit cards and other payment methods, and even provides free transportation from JR Shinjo Station for reservations of two or more people! What a tourist-friendly inn. You can rest easy knowing you'll be able to spend a relaxing time here.

Official website of the kindly inn Kangetsu

【buy】

Hijiori specialty Hotei Manju

Hijiori Caldera Cider, made with natural carbonated water from Caldera Onsenkan

Japanese sake "Hijiori Onsen"

Yunosato Hijiori no Yu (bath salts)

Rice terraces in four villages

Things to note when visiting the area

✔︎It's a small village, so it's a good idea to bring plenty of cash.

✔︎Free Wi-Fi available in the hot spring town

✔︎The inn " Hand-Dug Cave Hot Spring Matsuya " offers vegetarian-friendly vegetarian meals

✔︎It snows from December to March, so dress warmly.

National hot spring resorts are designated by the Minister of the Environment under the Hot Springs Act as healthy hot spring resorts where the benefits of hot spring use are expected to be sufficient. 79 hot spring resorts have been designated nationwide (as of October 2024). National hot spring resorts are selected based on the following criteria. 1. Conditions regarding the quality and volume of hot spring water (1) The source of the hot spring water used must be a therapeutic spring. (2) The hot spring water used must have an abundant volume of water. The standard volume of water flow must be 0.5 liters per minute or more per hot spring user. 2. Conditions regarding the environment of the hot spring resort (1) The hot spring is suitable as a resort from the perspective of the natural environment, townscape, history, climate, culture, etc. (2) A plan for the placement of doctors who can provide guidance on proper hot spring use and health management from a medical perspective, or a plan for the placement or training policy of personnel who can provide guidance on bathing methods, etc. in cooperation with the doctors, must be established. (3) Appropriate efforts will be made to protect hot spring resources, manage the hygiene of hot springs, promote public use of hot springs, and take into consideration the elderly and disabled, etc. (4) Enhanced efforts to prevent disasters.

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