Slip back in time to good old Japan. Strolling around Sumoto’s retro back alley

Awaji Island, the largest island in the Seto Inland Sea. Sumoto, which is located in its center, has thrived as the castle town of Sumoto Castle, which was built about 500 years ago. Even though there are many tourist attractions such as hot springs and beaches, this time I would like to introduce old-fashioned narrow alleys and shopping streets. Old town houses and retro scenery still remain, and you will be able to enjoy a fascinating walk around town as if you had slipped back in time to old Japan!

Sumoto Retro Komichi, where alleys of the Edo period remain

Sumoto, which is located in the center of Awaji Island, used to thrive as a castle town and is now known for Sumoto Onsen, a hot spring resort where you can enjoy spectacular views from the ryokans (Japanese-style hotels) lined up near the seashore.

Since there are few tall buildings in Sumoto, you can see this castle from every part of the town. At night, you can see the castle lit up at the top of the mountain. It feels as if the samurai watching over the city still lived there.

The castle town of Sumoto is surrounded by the sea to the east and mountains on the other three sides. The city itself is not very large.

It is a roughly 15-20-minute walk from Sumoto Bus Center Station, a highway bus terminal that is located at the northern end of the town, to the foot of Sumoto castle in the south. You can easily get around without using a car or a bus, so you will be able to enjoy the city’s atmosphere by strolling around.

One of the characteristics of Sumoto is that the pathways that were used when it was a castle town still remain to this day.

The east side (sea side) of Horibata-suji, a street that stretches across the center of the town, was a town of warriors, and the west side was a town of merchants. Looking at the map, you can clearly see the road laid out in a grid pattern running from east to west and north to south.

The west side that once thrived as a town of merchants is still an area lined with shopping arcades and numerous restaurants. It is a hub for the people of Sumoto.

A shop that made use of old-fashioned house in Sumoto Retro Komichi

The narrow alleys that remain from Sumoto's castle town days are used as streets for daily life even now. Among them is a section called “Sumoto Retro Komichi”. Along an about 350 meter alley that stretches towards the north from the foot of Sumoto Castle, there are many old shops and private homes which are over 100 years old which were renovated into cafes and stores.

This signboard which is the landmark of Sumoto Retro Komichi

There are many unique stores with a good sense of style scattered around Sumoto Retro Komichi, since it is as a place where people have lived since the past. This is an interesting part of this area. You can feel as if you were living in this town as you go around!

The only movie theater on the island. It used to be a playhouse.

Inside of the store freestars, a shop that made use of an old-fashioned Japanese private house.

One such store is “freestars”, a vintage Converse and clothing store. The owner started collecting vintage Converse as a hobby, and now there are over 300 pairs of them. The store located inside a renovated Japanese house is filled with items that reflect the owner’s sense of style!

It’s also nice to take a break at a café if you get tired of walking around town.

”Pegasus” is a café that is located in a quiet residential area 5 minute walk from Retro Komichi. You can enjoy sweets that use “Takumi Awaji Island Milk”, raw milk produced by only a limited number of dairy farmers in Awaji Island.

Shaved ice topped with “Takumi Awaji Island Milk” espuma is the best cure for hot summer. The owner’s family are dairy farmers that produce “Takumi Awaji Island Milk”.

Like “freestars” and “Pegasus”, there are many stores run by people of the younger generation around Retro Komichi. I heard that there are even people who moved from outside the island to open stores. A resident of the town told me that newcomers to the town are given information about vacant houses and the network from the locals, and by helping each other out they boost each other’s business.

As you stroll around Retro Komichi, you will come across elderly women making small talk on the street and neighbors greeting each other. The experience of being a part of local people’s daily life might be a charm unique to this town.

Bar hopping around Sumoto at night

It’s not only daytime that you can stroll the back alleys. At night, let’s go around the Sumoto’s night area.

Benten Ginza and Shinkaichi are located at the eastern corner of Horibata-suji, which divides the east and west sides of the castle town. This is the area in Sumoto where most of the bars and izakaya (Japanese-style bars) are concentrated.

“Benten-san”, which is at the end of the street

The landmark of Benten Ginza is the red Torii (Shinto shrine archway) that stands at the entrance of the street! The reason why there is a Torii at the night spot is because just past the Benten Ginza Street, there is Itsukushima Shrine that has a long and distinguished history.

Even though Horibata-suji is a quiet shopping street during the day, at night it takes on a unique atmosphere with lights on the store signs.

It is a rare sight in Japan to find a night spot on the approach to a shrine. This shrine is called “Benten-san” by the locals: "Benten-san" has been loved by many people as a “god of prosperity for business that leads to the community’s prosperity”, and protects the safety of shipment and navigation.

Sumoto’s bars and izakaya are places where local people gather to socialize. Also, there are many restaurants that use plenty of fresh seafood and vegetables unique to Awaji Island, making it a fascinating place to also visit as a tourist.

However, it takes a bit of courage for tourists to enter a restaurant crowded with locals, right?

At such times, bar hopping tours can help travelers! Shimato Works Inc. that is based in Sumoto, holds tours to go around several recommended restaurants together with travelers.

You will feel at ease since you can communicate with your guide in English. Also, you will have a chance to ask about food and drinks you will try out for the first time as well as about the culture of Awaji Island to the owner.

The time spent talking with the chefs over the counter and watching them clean the fish skillfully up close will surely become a very special memory!

The guide’s recommendations go far beyond a few bars and izakaya. The more you ask, the more fascinating information about good spots you will find, so why not stay there for two or three days and experience becoming a resident of Sumoto.

If you want to participate in the bar hopping tour, please contact the email address below.

info@shimatoworks.jp（E-mail address for Shimato-Works Inc.）  

Freestars

  Address：6-1-38 Honmachi Sumoto city Hyogo prefecture 656-0025（Google map）  

Business hours：11:00〜18:00 (business hours may change depending on the month, so please check their Instagram account）

Closed on：Mondays

Website: https://www.instagram.com/freestars.shop/

Pegasus

  Address：7-1-11 Honmachi Sumoto city Hyogo prefecture 656-0025〒656-0025（Google map）  

Business hours：11:30〜17:00

Website (SNS)：https://www.instagram.com/pegasus_awajishima/