Journey Through Southern Ehime, Japan: A Fusion of History, Coastal Adventures, and Sustainable Living
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Tucked away in the southern tip of Japan's Ehime Prefecture, this charming region offers travelers the opportunity to discover the soul of historic Japan. With rolling hills, terraced fields, charming castle towns and breathtaking coastline, southern Ehime is a place where past and present seamlessl...
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The Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture is recommended for those who want to travel Japan at a leisurely pace. It is a region where nature, such as the sea, mountains, and rivers, coexists with old townscapes and historical heritage. There are also plenty of activities that make use of nature, and you can enjoy long-term stays of a week or more. We hope you enjoy a leisurely trip to the Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture.
From the historic towns of Ozu and Uchiko to the beautiful coastlines of Ainan and Karihama, southern Ehime is a great region to explore by car. Set off on this scenic road trip to discover historic buildings that have stood the test of time, interact with welcoming locals, and immerse yourself in authentic experiences that showcase the heart of Japan's past. The journey reveals a treasure trove of culture, history and natural beauty, offering a unique blend of adventure and tradition.
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Table of Contents
- A Glimpse into Southern Ehime: Geography and Traditions
- Ozu: The Castle Town Rediscovered
- Uchiko: Preserving Tradition and Craftsmanship
- Seiyo City: Moss Gardens and Sustainable Mikan Farming
- Discovering the Heart of Historical Japan
A Glimpse into Southern Ehime: Geography and Traditions
The diverse landscapes of Southern Ehime—lush, forested mountains, fertile farmlands, and the sparkling coastline—invite exploration by road. The rivers flowing through Ozu and Uchiko into the Pacific nourish the region’s famed mikan orchards and sustain the rich fishing grounds of Ainan and Karihama, where skipjack tuna, amberjack, and octopus are plentiful.
The region’s history dates back centuries, with heritage buildings, traditional crafts, and sustainable practices playing a central role in the daily lives of locals. Ancient candle-making techniques, traditional blacksmithing, and stone-wall terracing for mikan farming are just a few examples of how history and tradition are preserved here, offering a window into an authentic, slower pace of life that thrives in harmony with nature.
Ozu: The Castle Town Rediscovered
Our journey begins in Ozu, a historic castle town often referred to as the "Little Kyoto" of Shikoku. This quaint town, built along the banks of the Hijikawa River, has seen a resurgence in recent years, emerging as a top sustainable travel destination. The restoration of its traditional buildings and the town's commitment to preserving its heritage has drawn global attention. At the heart of Ozu’s charm is the beautifully restored Ozu Castle, which now offers travelers the rare experience of staying overnight within its walls.
Stayed at NIPPONIA HOTEL Ozu Castle Town
A stay at NIPPONIA HOTEL Ozu Castle Town is a journey through time and space. Housed in a restored Edo-period merchant's house, this boutique hotel immerses guests in the charm of old Japan. Rooms blend traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern luxury, featuring tatami floors, shoji screens and carefully selected antiques.
Dining is a highlight, with Japanese-inspired French courses that showcase local seasonal ingredients crafted into elegant fusion cuisine served on vibrant Tobe-yaki ware. The emphasis on local ingredients, from freshly caught fish to Ozu-grown vegetables, reflects the town's commitment to sustainability.
The Club Lounge, renovated from an Edo period storehouse, offers drinks such as champagne, local sake, and mandarin juice, all relaxing on the garden terrace.
Each room reflects Ozu's cultural heritage, with some housed in historically significant buildings. The design combines traditional architecture with modern comforts, providing a luxurious yet authentic atmosphere. Whether featuring views of Ozu Castle or showcasing traditional elements like clay walls and plum blossom windows, the rooms offer a serene retreat. Nipponia Ozu merges historical charm with modern amenities, ensuring a memorable and comfortable stay in this historic town.
Garyu Sanso Tea Experience
Just a short walk from Nipponia Ozu Castle Town leads you to Garyu Sanso, a tranquil riverside villa that epitomizes sukiya-zukuri architecture. Blending seamlessly with its natural surroundings, the villa overlooks the Hijikawa River, and the intricate stone masonry at the entrance echoes the river’s flow, symbolizing harmony between nature and human design. As you move through the moss-covered garden, each step feels intentional, drawing you toward the teahouse, Furo-an.
Perched on a cliff, Furo-an resembles a boat, with its woven bamboo ceiling reflecting the craftsmanship and care embedded in every detail. Inside, simplicity and elegance converge—a wide plank of Sendai pine forms the floor, and the space feels both intimate and expansive, bathed in soft light. Sipping matcha from handcrafted ceramic cups, the experience becomes meditative, the view and the sound of the flowing river enhancing the peaceful atmosphere.
Built over ten years by the merchant Torajiro Kouchi, Garyu Sanso embodies a deep respect for traditional tea ceremonies and design. Named "resting dragon" after a nearby mountain, it now stands as a nationally important cultural asset, offering visitors a unique and personal connection to Japan's architectural beauty and serene landscapes.
Ukai Dinner Cruise
As night falls, one of the most enchanting experiences in Ozu begins—a Ukai dinner cruise on the Hijikawa River. Ukai, or cormorant fishing, is an ancient tradition dating back over 1,300 years, and witnessing it from a boat while enjoying a beautifully crafted bento box dinner and sipping champagne is nothing short of mesmerizing.
In a style known as awaseukai, the cormorant fishing boat, lit by dramatic bonfires, glides alongside passenger boats, allowing for an intimate view of the spectacle. The cormorant master, dressed in traditional attire, handles the birds with breathtaking skill. As the cormorants dive into the river, their sleek bodies illuminated by the flickering firelight, you may even feel the splash of water as they emerge with their catch. The fish they capture are prized for their freshness and have historically been offered as gifts to emperors and feudal lords.
The evening takes on a dreamlike quality as you float past some of Ozu’s most iconic sights. Garyu Sanso, its silhouette reflected on the river’s surface, and the illuminated Ozu Castle, standing proudly against the night sky, transport you to a different era. The combination of tradition, nature, and the subtle elegance of the experience leaves you with a profound connection to the heritage of Ozu. As you sip your champagne and watch the cormorants work, you feel a deep sense of reverence for the centuries-old practice unfolding before you.
Exploring Ozu Castle
No visit to Ozu would be complete without a tour of Ozu Castle itself. The castle, originally built in 1331 and painstakingly restored in the early 2000s, offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. The wooden interiors, narrow staircases, and sweeping views of the surrounding countryside allow visitors to imagine life in the days of samurai lords and castle fortifications. For an even more immersive experience, the castle now offers overnight stays in its keep—a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sleep in a castle while surrounded by history.
With its wooden interior, narrow staircases and expansive views of the surrounding countryside, visitors can imagine life in the days of samurai lords and castle fortresses. For an even more immersive experience, the castle now offers overnight stays in the castle tower - a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to stay in a castle while surrounded by history.
Uchiko: Preserving Tradition and Craftsmanship
Just a short 15 minute drive from Ozu, the town of Uchiko feels like stepping into a time capsule. The main streets of Yokaichi and Gokoku are lined with perfectly preserved Edo-period buildings, offering a glimpse into the town’s prosperous past as a center for traditional candle-making and wax production.
Omori Candle Shop
At the heart of Uchiko's rich history, Omori Candle Shop is a family-run business that has been producing traditional Japanese candles for over 200 years. Now in its sixth generation, the shop continues the traditional craft of candle making that dates back to the Edo period (1603-1867). Made from natural vegetable wax, these handcrafted candles are a sustainable alternative to modern paraffin candles, burning longer and cleaner with minimal soot.
The candles are made using wax from the sumac tree, and the process begins by crushing the nuts to extract the wax. The candle wicks are made by hand twisting Japanese paper and rush grass, wrapping them around a bamboo skewer, and repeatedly dipping them in warm wax. As the layers build up, the candle's shape is formed, revealing its distinctive nightingale color and thick, tree-ring-like layers at the top.
The meticulous craftsmanship passed down through generations ensures that each candle is unique, with a tall, steady flame that burns drip-free. A visit to Omori Candle Shop offers not just a glimpse into the candle-making process, but also a connection to centuries of Japanese tradition. These elegant candles, make for meaningful souvenirs, allowing you to bring home a piece of Uchiko’s storied past.
Jizaikōbō Blacksmith
For those with a passion for craftsmanship, a visit to Jizaikōbō, a third-generation blacksmith workshop, is a must. Here, you can try your hand at forging a steel candlestick under the guidance of a master blacksmith. The experience of heating, bending, and crafting metal is a thrilling one, and the end result—a beautifully crafted candlestick—will be the perfect companion to the candles bought from Omori.
Odamiyama Gorge and Tarai Udon
For nature lovers, the nearby Odamiyama Gorge offers a serene escape into the mountains. The crystal-clear waters of the river and the lush greenery make it an ideal spot for a peaceful walk, away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. After working up an appetite, head down the mountain to Kajikatei, where you can enjoy Tarai Udon, a local specialty served in a shallow wooden bucket. Dining by the river, with giant koi fish swimming lazily below, is the perfect way to end a day of exploration in Uchiko.
Seiyo City: Moss Gardens and Sustainable Mikan Farming
Heading south from Ozu, a short 15 minute drive brings you to the Kokemushiro moss garden in Seiyo City, offering a moment of tranquility and reflection. Nestled on the edge of a forest, this carefully cultivated garden is a green oasis where visitors can relax and enjoy a cup of tea while taking in the soft light filtering through the trees.
Karihama: A Truly Sustainable Village and Hidden Coastal Gem
A 30-minute drive from Seiyo leads to Karihama, a coastal village renowned for its mikan (Japanese citrus) cultivation, fishing, and pearl farming. Nestled along the ria coast of the Uwa Sea, Karihama’s terraced fields, supported by centuries-old Ishigaki stone walls, create a stunning landscape of green and orange against the gray-white stone. These walls, constructed from local limestone and chert, not only prevent soil erosion but also facilitate natural irrigation and withstand typhoons. Unlike concrete walls, these stone structures are easier to repair and harmonize with the environment. However, population decline has posed a challenge, making it harder to maintain these essential walls. Local farmer Sayaka, who is dedicated to preserving this heritage, highlights efforts to involve visitors in the restoration process, fostering community engagement and pride.
Sayaka, a local farmer passionate about preserving this heritage site, highlights her efforts to involve tourists in the restoration process, fostering community engagement and pride.
Visitors to Karihama can immerse themselves in its sustainable traditions. Join a local octopus fisherman for a unique fishing experience, where you’ll witness the beauty of the terraced hills from the sea and help haul in nets and even handle a live octopus!
The fisherman practices responsible fishing, keeping only mature octopus and releasing younger ones to ensure a healthy population.
For a true taste of local culture, participate in a cooking lesson with a local chef to make ‘Satsuma Jiru,’ a savory paste of grilled fish, sesame, barley miso, and local fish broth, paired with fresh sashimi from locally caught fish, hand-made sushi, and Imotaki stew. This farm-to-table experience highlights the village’s commitment to fresh, local ingredients.
End your visit with a trip to Sato Pearl Farm, where you’ll learn about pearl cultivation in the bay. Observe the meticulous process of inserting nuclei into oysters, and even select and make your own pair of pearl earrings to take home. These experiences not only showcase Karihama’s agricultural and maritime heritage but also contribute to its sustainable future.
Ainan: Coastal Beauty and Rustic Traditions
Further south, the town of Ainan offers a serene escape where the rugged coastline and slow pace of life allow visitors to reconnect with nature and traditional Japanese culture.
Fishing for Amberjack, Eating fresh Katsuo Sashimi and Exploring Coastal Villages
Ainan is famed for its fresh seafood and the chance to join local fishermen on morning excursions. The experience of fishing for amberjack and sea bream, guided by an expert fisherman with local knowledge and a small radar, is both exhilarating and rewarding. Within minutes, we find ourselves reeling in a 60 cm amberjack, and with the fisherman’s skillful guidance, we also catch some local sea bream.
A highlight of the trip is a short cruise around Cape Kuomo. This headland juts dramatically into the sea, and the boat’s small size allows us to explore a hidden cave, where sunlight illuminates the crystal-clear blue waters and stunning cave walls.
Back on shore, the Ainan Fish Market serves up biyabiya katsuo, a local delicacy made from freshly caught skipjack tuna. Each tuna, caught using line pole fishing, is carefully handled to ensure optimal freshness, with only mature fish kept and immature ones released. At the market, the biyabiya katsuo is served as sashimi, showcasing the fish’s rich flavor and quality.
Nearby, the village of Sotodomari offers a picturesque journey through stone-walled paths and traditional houses, evoking a nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of ancient ruins. The maze-like streets provide excellent photo opportunities and a sense of stepping back in time.
Wild Game BBQ at Kaitakusya Guesthouse
End your day at Kaitakusya Guesthouse, where a rustic wild game BBQ awaits.
The meal features expertly prepared wild boar and deer, cooked over a traditional binchotan charcoal grill in a repurposed barn illuminated by lanterns. Paired with freshly harvested vegetables and local seafood, this intimate, farm-to-table experience reflects Ainan’s commitment to local and sustainable cuisine.
Discovering the Heart of Historical Japan
A journey through Southern Ehime is more than just a scenic road trip—it’s a deep dive into the heart of historical Japan.
The connections you make with locals, the ancient traditions you experience firsthand, and the natural beauty that surrounds you at every turn leave an indelible mark. In this part of Japan, time slows down, and the modern world feels far away, replaced by a way of life that values sustainability, community, and a deep respect for the land and sea.
For travelers seeking authenticity, Southern Ehime offers an unforgettable journey filled with history, culture, and a profound sense of connection. Whether it’s learning about the art of candle-making in Uchiko, savoring fresh sashimi in Ainan, or rebuilding stone walls in Karihama, this region invites you to experience the true essence of Japan—one that remains rooted in its past while embracing a sustainable future.
The Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture is recommended for those who want to travel Japan at a leisurely pace. It is a region where nature, such as the sea, mountains, and rivers, coexists with old townscapes and historical heritage. There are also plenty of activities that make use of nature, and you can enjoy long-term stays of a week or more. We hope you enjoy a leisurely trip to the Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture.
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