[Town of Handicrafts, Echizen City] A Journey to Record the Activities of the People of Echizen

Kit has lived in Tokyo since 1991 and has worked as a journalist and writer. Since 2008, I have contributed a column to the Japan Times called "The Backstreet Stories." Sarah also lived in Japan after becoming an adult. As a writer, tour guide, and consultant, he is well versed in Japanese culture. The two of them have visited Fukui Prefecture in the past, but this is their first time visiting Echizen City. This time, we will be closely following the interview trip of the two.

Urushiya

The first place we visited was Kyomachi 1-chome, the central area of ​​Echizen City where many buildings from the Taisho period still remain. There is a long-established restaurant " Urushiya ", which originated in Echizen soba, on "Teramachi-dori" with cobbled streets.

Urushiya was founded in the late Edo period. As the name suggests, the shop used to sell lacquerware and was reborn as a soba restaurant in 1861. The pillars and beams of the shop are painted with lacquer, and the courtyard and furnishings are faithfully preserved as they were in the past.

The most famous episode in the history of Urushiya is in 1947, when Emperor Showa visited Takefu. Emperor Showa was very pleased with this grated soba, and even after returning to the Imperial Palace, he said, "That Echizen soba..." and felt nostalgic. It is said that the name "Echizen soba" spread from here. The buckwheat noodles are made with matcha (green tea) mixed in, and are eaten by dipping them in a sauce made by mixing radish juice and soy sauce. The recreated oroshi soba is based on the story of a person who knew a lot about the time and the few documents, and is offered as ``Nadai Oroshi Soba''.

At "Urushiya," the kaiseki course meals that include soba noodles are also popular. A box of six gourds beautifully arranged appetizers appears, and Kit and Sara cheer.

Mr. Kit, who has eaten soba all over the country, was surprised by the punchy taste of the spicy daikon radish.

This time, we ate in a private room where Emperor Showa dined. “Having Japanese soul food in a place associated with Emperor Showa is a very valuable experience!” said Sarah with excitement.

After enjoying a variety of kaiseki cuisine such as soba, mackerel sushi, and tempura, we head to our next destination.

Urushiya

Mido Yōganji Temple

About 10 minutes on foot from JR Takefu Station. The next place we visited was “Mido Yōganji”, which stands out even in the town of Takefu, which has many temples since ancient times.

Yōganji is a high-class temple that was built in the Muromachi period and is also known as 'Mido' or 'Gobo'. The palace and meeting place in the precincts were built to welcome the head priest of Nishi Honganji, the head temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji sect. When you step into the solemn space, dignified air flows.

Furthermore, the 230 tsubo "Goten Teien" that spreads out on the south side of the precincts is so beautiful that you can't help but sigh. When you look at it from the palace, you will feel a sense of openness like a panorama, and you will want to lose track of time and gaze at the beautifully arranged plants such as azaleas, azaleas, and autumn leaves.

The chief priest, Kiyoshi Fujieda, guided them. Although it is located in the city, we are planning various events such as special visits, temple cafes, concerts, etc. to make Yanganji a more open place, which until now was only visited by parishioners.

Guided by the chief priest, go deeper into the palace garden. This time, the Japanese taste has changed completely, and it has become a retro reception space. This is a reproduction of a room in the auditorium of the University of Paris, France, where the 14th chief priest studied abroad for eight years from 1882. With the plastered ceiling and rare earthenware lighting, the space will make you feel like you've traveled back in time.

While gazing out at the garden, enjoy matcha green tea and sweets with the theme colors of Yōganji. The conversation with the chief priest was endless, and the two enthusiastic interviews continued until time allowed.

Mido Yōganji Temple

giraffe cutlery

After leaving Yōganji, we headed to Kirin Cutlery, a long-established cutlery shop. The impressive giraffe mark in front of the store is a landmark.

Founded in 1873, Kirin cutlery has been passed down for five generations to date. The owner, Mr. Yasutaka Iida, talks about the time when the restaurant was founded.

“At the time, the sickles we made were engraved by craftsmen. Most of them were engraved with animals. Kirin is famous for its beer, but at the time it was possible to use it in different industries.That's why we still have the Kirin mark on our cutlery."

Echizen cutlery, one of the traditional crafts that Echizen City is proud of, was brought to Japan by Kuniyasu Chiyozuru, a swordsmith from Kyoto during the period of the Northern and Southern Courts. It seems that there is one.

“The first is that the water from the Hino River in the Hakusan water system provided a source of water necessary for blacksmithing, the second is that the iron-rich soil is resistant to heat, and the third is wood, which is a raw material for charcoal. The reason is that there was an abundance of

One thing that catches the eye in the giraffe cutlery workshop is the large painting on the wall. This picture was drawn nearly 70 years ago by a local elementary school student of a Kirin cutlery workshop.

“This area used to be Kajiya-machi. The river that existed at that time and the rows of pine trees are also depicted. In the old days, the bell of a nearby temple rang at 2:00 a.m., signaling the blacksmiths to wake up. I got it."

I was also shown the storehouse for storing cutlery in the back of the workshop. Since the blade is made of metal, it takes time to rest the blade in order for the molecules to stabilize.

The age-old tools that are still in use today are proof of the history of Kirin cutlery. Knowing the background of Echizen cutlery, Kit and Sarah deepened their understanding of this area.

Koyanagi chest "kicoru"

After walking for about 3 minutes from Kirin Hamono, the next destination came into view. We arrived at the atelier "kicoru", which was opened in 2014 by Koyanagi Tansu, a long-established Echizen chest of drawers store.

Using traditional joinery techniques, we display and sell various works such as custom-made furniture and speakers created in collaboration with designers.

Originally, craftsmen who make furniture were called ``sashimonshi,'' and it seems that the origin of the word ``point'' is to use a ``pointer'' to work and assemble materials with tenons and joints.

Around the middle of the Meiji era, full-fledged chest craftsmen were active. Echizen City still has Tansumachi Street, which is lined with joinery dealers and furniture stores.

“Echizen chests of drawers are a combination of three Echizen techniques, such as the unique joinery technique of assembling wood together, the processing of metal fittings that make use of the cutting edge technique, and the lacquer coating that protects the wood and makes the chests durable. It's done," said Mr. Norikazu Koyanagi , the 4th generation owner of Koyanagi Tansu.

Echizen chest of drawers is a traditional craft that was born in a place where various manufacturing areas such as Echizen cutlery and Echizen lacquerware gather within a radius of 10 km around Echizen city.

One of the characteristics of Echizen chests of drawers is the heart-shaped pattern seen on the metal fittings, which is called "Inome". It has the meaning of protecting against fire, and is said to have been used in shrines and temples, including the gate of Horyu-ji Temple. These metal fittings are sanded and trimmed by hand.

The metal fittings that make a unique sound when the lock is opened are also a mechanism that has been handed down since ancient times. Both Kit and Sara are watching with interest.

In addition, it was a fulfilling interview, such as interviewing the mechanism of Karakuri Tansu and actually experiencing planing.

Koyanagi chest "kicoru"

Japanese Restaurant Shikura

The interview on the first day is also one paragraph. At night, I came to the area called “Kura no Tsuji” where white-walled storehouses stand side by side in order to taste Echizen gourmet food. We arrived at “Japanese Cuisine Shikura” . What you are looking for is "Echizen crab cuisine", which is said to be the king of winter in Echizen.

“Echizen Gani” is a male snow crab that is landed at a port in Fukui Prefecture. The Sea of ​​Japan off the coast of Fukui has many fishing grounds where warm and cold currents collide, and because of the abundance of plankton to feed on, the crabs grow to be large and flavorful.

The opening date for fishing is November 6th every year. Until the end of the fishing season until March 20th of the following year, the course meal will be replaced with Echizen crab.

The two of them were surprised at the size of the boiled crab that the shopkeeper brought. The moist and chewy meat and the rich miso will satisfy your taste buds.

A female snow crab called “Seiko-gani” is also popular among locals. The fishing season here is shorter than Echizen, until the end of December, and the eggs called Uchiko and Sotoko are exquisite.

And the ultimate is "Kura Sake", which is made by pouring Japanese sake into the shell of a crab. The umami of crab and the mellow aroma of sake will make you drink more and more.

A delicious meal and a delicious sake while looking back on today's trip. The night in Echizen went on like this.

Japanese Restaurant Shikura

Yanase Japanese paper

Second day of the interview trip. On this day, we will move to the Imadate district, the production area of ​​Echizen washi paper, and proceed with the interview. I came to "Yanase Washi" . Using a technique called nagashi-suki, we mainly make plain and patterned fusuma paper.

What Kit and Sara experienced was one of the traditional techniques of Echizen washi, "hooking". It is a technique unique to Echizen washi developed after the war, in which A3-sized washi is made and the raw material of washi is "hooked" in a special mold to create a pattern.

"I've made paper a few times," said Kit. As expected, a beautiful pattern emerged with the hands that I got used to. While drying the washi, we will ask Mr. Haruo Yanase, the second generation of Yanase Washi, about the appeal of Echizen washi.

“Echizen washi is a production area that has always tried to meet the needs of its customers. With the spirit of trying things out, I have cultivated my skills and know-how by making use of my experience.”

Mr. Sho, the third generation owner, helps out with Haruo in the family business. After graduating from Fukui National College of Technology, he entered the family business and inherited Haruo's technique as a successor.

“At first, I felt the difficulty of the work that my parents did without difficulty, but now I am able to move around quite naturally. My father and I are the two men. In order to expand the possibilities of Japanese paper, we are also developing products such as Japanese paper boxes.”

A father who thinks of his son and a son who chases after his father. The warm relationship between parent and child made both Kit and Sara smile.

Yanase Japanese paper

Heisaburo Iwano Paper Mill

The last place I visited was Iwano Heizaburo Paper Mill , which is also located in the Imadate district. Founded in 1865, it is the largest handmade Japanese paper studio in Japan.

Kumohadamashi, the representative paper, is an epoch-making Japanese paper that was revived in 1926 by Heizaburo Iwano, the founder of the company, after researching the obsolete hemp paper.

At that time, Japanese paintings were mainly drawn on picture silk, but the appearance of Kumohada hemp paper, which allows paint to be applied in layers, revolutionized the Japanese painting world. It is also loved by many artists such as Taikan Yokoyama and Ikuo Hirayama, and is also used for cultural properties that represent Japan, such as the restoration of the mural paintings of the Kondo of Horyuji Temple and the fusuma paintings of Toshodaiji Temple.

The process of “selecting” is essential before making high-quality Japanese paper. Even in the middle of winter, the female staff put their hands in the cold water and remove the dust one by one.

The dust is so small that you can't see it unless you look closely. The work of sorting by eye and touch is the result of many years of experience.

The characteristic of Heisaburo Iwano Paper Mill is the technique of making large paper. Two people work in pairs, and large paper can be made in groups of four or six people. The sight of each movement being performed in unison will take your breath away.

Washi paper that has been made several times is placed on a jack and pressed. After that, the layers of paper are peeled off one by one, pasted onto a board, and dried in a warm room.

The hand-made Japanese paper is pasted on a ginkgo board. It has few knots and is smooth to the touch, so it appears as a soft and beautiful pattern.

The Japanese paper of Heizaburo Iwano Paper Mill is made on a dynamic scale while retaining the delicacy of hand-made paper. Kit and Sara, whose intellectual curiosity was piqued and unable to lose interest, had a lively conversation with the craftsman.

Heisaburo Iwano Paper Mill

finish the trip

We asked the two of them about their impressions of the trip at the end of their two-day tour of manufacturing sites in Echizen.

“Until I visited Echizen in winter, I had the impression of a gray sky. However, when I actually toured the town, I was able to feel the craftsmanship and the warmth of the people involved, and I was able to spend a wonderful time. I want to go to a place where I was once again,” said Sarah.

“I knew that Echizen had wonderful craftsmanship, but when I actually visited the workshop, I was overjoyed, saying, 'It really did exist!' You can have a deep interaction with people, so you might be able to make special memories,” continued Kit.

For Kit and Sara, who are well versed in Japanese culture, this trip was a time to fully appreciate the charm of Echizen City.

“There are a lot of people who want to come back to Echizen to see me again,” said Mr. Kit, which left an impression on me.