CEC diary [Kyoto] 3 selections of craftsmanship and science and technology that support the Nishijin textile industry

Nice to meet you all! My name is Akira Setoguchi and I am a CEC member. In "CEC Diary", we, CEC members, will introduce you to the attractive spots in Kyoto that we have seen and heard about. I hope this helps you plan your trip. This time, we will introduce three types of craftsmanship and science and technology that support Kyoto's traditional "Nishijin textile" industry!

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Cultural Edu-tourism Council (CEC)

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1. Craftsmanship “kanzome”

Do you know “kanzome”? When dyeing thread, the craftsman predicts the finished color and dyes the thread using his own sense. Color it with your senses...? As amateurs like us, we can't imagine it at all, but the thread dyeing process is all done by skilled artisans in order to avoid damaging the threads. It seems that if the dyeing process were to be completely controlled by machines, it would actually take more time. Dyeing is done while predicting the finish of the “wet” yarn after “drying.” It's truly a miracle.

We observed the thread dyeing process, comparing it with samples.

Kanzome technique

2. Science and technology “scouring pot”

The word ``refinement'' is written in a different kanji than the word smelting metal. It's not familiar to me. "Scouring" is a process that removes impurities and proteins attached to the surface of the thread to give it a moist finish. There were many different types of pots, from large pots to small pressure pots that can heat over 100 degrees Celsius, and it was an amazing sight to see.

Special pot for scouring

3. “Handloom” is a fusion of craftsmanship and science and technology.

"Handloom" refers to the technique of weaving by hand by craftsmen using a machine called a jacquard. The jacquard is a device invented in France and introduced to Japan during the Meiji period. I also learned about this for the first time, but it is quite interesting to see how French technology supports traditional Japanese crafts. While automatically controlling the warp threads using a jacquard, craftsmen thread each weft thread one by one based on the drawing. Some Nishijin textiles have over 3,000 warp threads. By controlling these warp threads with jacquard, it is now possible to weave more complex designs more quickly. However, fabrics woven by hand by craftsmen are said to be lighter and more comfortable to wear than completely woven by machines. In the end, Nishijin-ori cannot exist without the skill of the craftsmen!

You can see Noh costumes woven by hand.

This time we introduced the traditional techniques of Nishijin, but what did you think? We hope that you will visit Nishijin and experience the skills of the craftsmen.

May your travels be filled with wonderful experiences.

Planning cooperation｜ Maimai Kyoto

Please contact https://www.cec-kyoto.jp/ for information on ordering a Kyoto guide.

Written by

Cultural Edu-tourism Council (CEC)

Kyoto

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