Unseen Japan: A 2 Day Itinerary to Tour Matsumoto in Winter
This article is a 2 day itinerary of a tour in Matsumoto, visiting Matsumoto City Museum of Art, Matsumoto Castle, and Shirahone Onsen. The participants will be staying at a a ryokan, try snowshoeing, enjoy shopping, and taste the local cuisine.
A 2 Day Tour to Appreciate Matsumoto City
Tokyo, a modern metropolis. Osaka, where the foodies visit. Hokkaido, the land of snow. These may be the images of Japan, held by most tourists.
But there is a city near Tokyo, rich in history, art, and cultural heritage, with a natural surrounding that is second to none in Japan. It is Matsumoto, a major city in Nagano Prefecture.
This article introduces a 2 day itinerary for a tour of the city, including a visit to Matsumoto City Museum of Art, Matsumoto Castle, and bathing at Shirahone Onsen, nestled in a valley. Participants will be staying at a a ryokan (Japanese-style inn), try snowshoeing, along with shopping and tasting the local cuisine.
Day One: A Modern Art Museum, Matsumoto Castle, and a Stroll in the City
The tour starts from Shinjuku Station. Take Azusa, an express train, and get off at Matsumoto. The ride takes 2 hours and 45 minutes.
It is a 5 minute bus ride from the station to Matsumoto City Museum of Art, the first stop.
11:00 Matsumoto City Museum of Art
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City Museum of Art.
Art enthusiasts should not miss this museum, which displays many works of artists who have ties to Matsumoto. The Visionary Flowers, a large composition by Yayoi Kusama, who was born in the city, is displayed outdoors.
The museum hosts three to four exhibitions every year, where visitors have a chance to take photographs of artworks.
Please note that photograph may not be allowed in some cases, so be sure to check the rules.
Trivia: Yayoi Kusama, called the queen of polka dots, transforms her experience into works of art. From 2023, Kusama has been collaborating with Louis Vuitton, a world-famous fashion brand.
12:15 Lunch at Ishii Miso
Picture courtesy of Ishii Miso.
After watching various works of art at the museum, it's time to visit Ishii Miso. The distinguished firm started business in 1868 (late Edo Period).
A restaurant is located next to the miso (fermented soybean paste) factory, where visitors can taste their products after touring the grounds.
There is a special miso which has been matured for 3 years. Compared to an ordinary type on the market, the special miso is rich in color, and tasteful.
While most miso factories use plastic or metal aging barrels, Ishii uses wooden types, which are better in terms of ventilation, and makes the product taste better.
Picture courtesy of Ishii Miso.
There is a wide variety of dishes, from a Japanese style set meal, which is served with miso soup, to yaki-miso onigiri (grilled rice balls with miso). Don't miss the miso flavored, soft-served ice cream.
13:30 A Stroll in the City: Matsumoto Castle, Nawate-dori, and Nakamachi-dori
The tour continues after lunch.
A visit to Matsumoto means visiting Matsumoto Castle. From Ishii Miso, it is a 17 minute walk to the fortress.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
Of all the Japanese castles in which the keep is built in the "five stories with six levels" style, Matsumoto Castle is the oldest. The level of construction is quite high, and stunning as well.
The black wall of the magestic castle contrasts beautifully against the backdrop of the snow-covered Japan Alps.
The castle also displays historic materials such as armors, matchlock guns, and weapons used in the Sengoku Period.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
Besides the castle, there are old, well-preserved districts in Matsumoto, such as the Nawate-dori and Nakamachi-dori. The area is dotted with souvenir shops and eateries offering light snacks.
Nawate-dori is known for a figure of a frog. While kaeru means "frog" in Japanese, one of its homophones means "going home."
The figure was made in hopes that frogs, which inhabited this area, returns, and that everyone goes home safely.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
From Nawate-dori, it is a 2 minute walk, about 140 meters, to Nakamachi-dori.
The area is a shopping street, in an old town, with black and white cross-patterns on the building walls. This is must-visit spot for those who are interested in scenic photographs.
There are spring water fountains along the street, where cafes, restaurants, and handmade general merchandise shops are lined up.
When you visit Matsumoto, do try the oyaki. It is a local cuisine, which looks like kuichâai, a Thai food.
There are various fillings, from side dish to confection types. The writer tried a vegetable oyaki, which was delicious, and placed another order.
17:30 Stay at Yumoto Saito Ryokan in Shirahone Onsen
After the stroll, it's time for the highlight of the tour, bathing isn an onsen (hot spring) surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Just thinking about it will heighten the expectations.
From Matsumoto, it is a 60 minute taxi ride, or a 70 minute ride on a train and bus, to the inn.
Picture courtesy of Yumoto Saito Ryokan.
Yumoto Saito Ryokan is a traditional Japanese-style inn. Guests will feel like they have stepped into ancient Japan, depicted in movies.
The facility is surrounded by snow, and the Japan Alps. It is quite a thrilling sight.
Picture courtesy of Yumoto Saito Ryokan.
Of the 51 guestrooms, only one is Western-style, and the others are tatami rooms. Tour participants will be staying in the tatami rooms.
The living and bedroom are separated by sliding doors and furnished with a yukata for both men and women.
Picture courtesy of Yumoto Saito Ryokan.
After checking in, it's time for the highlight of Day One, bathing in Shirahone Onsen. The name means hot spring of white bones, which comes from the milky white spring water.
This is an onsen with 600 years of history. The legend goes that the spring water is good for the skin, and cleans the bone as well.
With the clean air, guests can relax at this inn, surrounded by nature. They can view the snowscape in winter, and the lush trees in summer.
The onsen is said to be effective against gastrointestinal symptoms and cuts, having therapeutic values as well. There is also a drinking fountain, which is different from some springs.
The water is drawn directly from the source, so the guests can take in all the vital minerals.
Picture courtesy of Yumoto Saito Ryokan.
The inn has various bathing facilities, both indoors and outdoors.
But the best choice would be the open-air bath. To bathe in the hot water, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, is an experience that words cannot describe.
Picture courtesy of Yumoto Saito Ryokan.
After treating the mind with onsen, let's treat the body with Japanese dishes.
The inn boasts a wide variety of menus, including soba, shabu-shabu, beef toungue, sukiyaki, and sashimi, served with locally-grown vegetables.
Day Two: Adventure in Snow and Tasting Real Soba
The second day will be busy as the first. At breakfast, be sure to try the porridge, cooked with the onsen water. It is said to improve the intestinal conditions.
After the meal, take a taxi to Norikura Kogen. The ride from the inn takes about 30 minutes.
9:00 Snowshoeing at Norikura Kogen
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
Nagano Prefecture is famous for its mountains, and there are many ski resorts, so activities in snow should not be missed. The first stop of the day is Norikura Kogen.
It is located at the foot of the Northern Alps, near Kamikochi.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto Cit.
Various activities, such as skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing, are available at this area.
First-time visitors should try snowshoeing. It uses snowshoes, which makes walking on snow easier. Participants can go trekking, taking photographs along the way.
There is a hiking tour (Frozen Waterfall Snowshoe Tour) to an icefall. Participants can choose from a half-day or a full-day course.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
The tour took the half-day icefall course, hosted by North Star. The guide was cordial and charming.
The scenery is comparable to that of Europe, and the trek was worth more than the price.
Soba-dokoro Gassho
After snowshoeing, the tour took a taxi to Soba-dokoro Gassho, a charming, old-style soba restaurant.
Soba, containing various vitamins and minerals, is a low-calory food. Nagano is famous for its production of soba, so be sure to taste it.
Picture courtesy of Soba-dokoro Gassho.
In the winter season, don't miss tohji soba. It is a Nagano cuisine, boiling handmade soba noodles with mushrooms, like a shabu-shabu. The dish will warm the body from inside.
14:45 Coffee Bigaku Abe
Picture courtesy of Coffee Bigaku Abe.
This cafe, which opened in 1957, is an inaugural figure in the Matsumoto coffee scene. Their motto is to serve coffee that is “black as a devil, sweet as an angel.”
Picture courtesy of Coffee Bigaku Abe.
The signature drink is the mocha cream au lait, an original menu. It blends thick coffee with smooth milk, and even those who often don't drink coffee should give it a try.
Abe also serves light dishes, such as parfait, toast, and sandwich, along with various confections.
15:45 Souvenir Shopping at Wabi-Sabi
Picture courtesy of Wabi-Sabi.
Don't forget to look for souvenirs with a Japanese taste in Matsumoto. After taking a break, the tour visited Wabi-Sabi, a store with an exterior that looks like a Japanese castle.
Picture courtesy of Wabi-Sabi.
It is a souvenir shop, with a wide variety of items. The shop mainly handles Japanese tableware, including Kiso lacquer ware, designed in the minimalist style.
They also handle adorable fans, Japanese dolls, and key rings, which are sure to satisfy avid shoppers.
18:00 Illumination Events
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City.
Matsumoto Castle looks beautiful, even at night. There are two illumination events in winter, one at the castle, and the other in the city.
The castle will be lit up from 18:00 to 21:00. The lighting will change according to the period, so visitors will be able to enjoy something different.
Picture courtesy of Matsumoto City
The illumination in the city area starts at 16:30, and ends at 22:00.
The lit-up area stretches from Chitose Bridge, through Daimyocho-dori, to Otemon Masugata-ato Hiroba. There are many spots fit for a photo shoot along the way, so those looking to take nighttime photographs should give it a try.
Visit Matsumoto in Winter
The Matsumoto tour was an eye-opener for the writer. The scenery was wonderful, people were courteous, and the meals were delicious. There were various activites to enjoy, as well.
The key point is that it was not crowded at all. There are still many sightseeing destinations in Japan not known to visitors from abroad.
Do visit Matsumoto in winter, and have fun.
Sponsored by Matsumoto City
Written by MATCHA
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