Yamagata Travel: Matchmaking Shrine, Onsen, and Totoro
Plan a peaceful Yamagata trip to Kumano Taisha Shrine and Akayu Onsen. Experience sacred blessings, cherry blossoms, Totoro, and a cute rabbit stationmaster!
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Originally from Chiayi, Taiwan, I majored in history in university. I'm a history geek and otaku living in an old downtown area of Tokyo. I have worked as a journalist for a Taiwanese business magazine, public relations manager for Mos Burger Taiwan, and as a marketer of American skin products in Taiwan. Currently working as a freelance of writer. Visiting castles in my free time.
As a storyteller, I only write about things that I saw, heard, and researched myself. Every word of my articles reflects what I personally thought and felt.
If you have some time, do read some of my stories.
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Yamagata Prefecture is home to Kumano Taisha Shrine, a sacred site famous for its powerful matchmaking blessings. Right nearby, you can relax in Akayu Onsen, a cozy hot spring town loved by anime director Hayao Miyazaki.
This charming region brings together several unique attractions in one trip. You can spot a hidden Totoro drawing in Akayu Onsen, admire vibrant pink cherry blossoms at nearby Eboshiyama Park, and meet a real rabbit stationmaster at Miyauchi Station!
Tohoku's Ise Shrine: Kumano Taisha Shrine
Kumano Taisha Shrine is often called the Ise Shrine of Tohoku, as it holds a sacred and distinguished status equivalent to that of the Ise Grand Shrine, the grand center of Shinto culture in Japan.
Climb the Stone Steps for Matchmaking Blessings
Kumano Taisha Shrine, famous for its powerful matchmaking blessings, sits at the top of a long flight of stone steps. Finding true love takes effort, starting with the climb to the top!
Before starting your ascent, stop by the temizuya water pavilion near the base of the stairs. In addition to cleansing your hands and mouth, you can admire seasonal floral decorations. While many shrines simply float flowers in the water, staff here thoughtfully arrange blooms above the basin, creating a beautifully immersive atmosphere.
With over 1,200 years of history, Kumano Taisha Shrine enshrines Izanami and Izanagi, the divine couple recognized in Japanese mythology as the first husband and wife. Because these two deities married and gave birth to the islands and gods of Japan, worshippers hold this sacred site in high regard for matchmaking and strong romantic bonds.
Omikuji Fortune Slips
People of all ages visit the shrine to pray for love and good relationships. Worshippers gather in front of the main hall to offer prayers using the classic ritual: two bows, two claps, a wish, and a final deep bow. Nearby, tree branches overflow with tied fortune slips. Each slip holds a personal prayer, combining to create a beautiful floral pattern known as Hanamusubi (flower knots)
Another unique option is the Kaze no Oto Mizu-mikuji (Sound of Wind Water Fortune). Printed on refreshing blue paper, your fortune appears when placed on cool water, right alongside gently swaying wind chimes. Even if you do not draw great fortune, the adorable fortune slip lifts your spirits, leaving you refreshed and energized.
Find the Three Rabbits to Make Your Wish Come True
Walking behind the main hall, you will see many visitors looking up with focused expressions. They are searching for the legendary "Three Rabbits."
Legend says that three rabbits are carved into the wooden beams underneath the eaves. If you manage to find all three, your wish will come true. However, you must never tell anyone where the secret third rabbit is hidden. While the first two are easy to spot, finding the third one is a secret you will have to discover on your own!
Take Sacred Blessings with You: Omamori Amulets
The omamori amulets at Kumano Taisha Shrine feature stylish, charming designs. The newly renovated amulet counter displays everything in a clean, easy-to-understand layout, making it simple to find the specific blessing you need. That said, choosing just one is tough because every single design is so delightful!
You will also find adorable rabbit omikuji fortune figurines. Inside each cute pink rabbit is a fortune revealing your future luck in love and relationships. Even better, you can bring the figurine home as a keepsake decoration, combining divine protection with heartwarming charm.
Seasonal Events to Supercharge Your Wishes
Picture courtesy of Yamagata Arcadia Tourism Bureau
As a sacred destination for romance and matchmaking, Kumano Taisha Shrine hosts a special monthly event called Tsukimusubi (Moon Matchmaking). Held on a weekend evening around the full moon, the event features a special prayer ceremony where participants receive an exclusive Tamayura-mamori. This handcrafted amulet gets its name from a classic phrase meaning a precious, fleeting moment. Blessed under the full moon, it serves as a divine token to bring lasting love into your life.
During the summer, the shrine grounds feature a refreshing wind chime display. While similar festivals take place elsewhere, listening to the crisp, ethereal chimes ringing through the lush green forest leaves an extraordinarily memorable impression. Kumano Taisha (Kumano Shrine)
992-0472 3476-1 Miyauchi, Nanyo City, Yamagata Prefecture
It is also called the Ise of Tohoku, and is one of the three Kumano shrines in Japan, along with Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture and Kumano Kodai Shrine in Nagano Prefecture. The Reitaisai festival, which has been going on for 1200 years, is held on July 24th and 25th every year.
Taisha Shrine icho cafe
At the base of the long shrine entrance stairs sits icho cafe, a cozy coffee shop housed in a renovated historic building right beneath a massive ginkgo tree. Every November, the tree leaves turn a brilliant golden yellow, creating a stunning seasonal backdrop. Paired with fluffy French toast and fresh coffee, it offers the perfect spot to relax and recharge.
Unwind in Akayu Onsen Hot Springs
After visiting the shrine, take a short trip over to the town of Akayu Onsen. Though peaceful and understated, this hot spring town is famously cherished by anime director Hayao Miyazaki. His fondness for the area even led him to draw a custom illustration of Totoro soaking in an onsen—a unique artwork displayed inside Akayu Station and local ryokan baths!
Inside the baths of the historic local ryokan Uesugi no Oyado Gotenmori, you will find another hidden Totoro design.
Day-use bath entrance fees at traditional ryokan cost around 1,000 yen. If you are looking for a more budget-friendly alternative, local public bathhouses offer fantastic value. The town features four public bathhouses that use natural thermal spring water for just 100 to 200 yen! While they lack the luxury amenities of a ryokan resort, the experience is unbeatable for the price. Just note that the spring water in public bathhouses runs quite hot, so be sure to test the temperature before easing in.
You will also find two public footbaths along the town streets. One is Sakiwai no Yu, next to the Akayu Onsen Tourist Information Center, but locals often recommend Akko Poppo Yu. Located right at the origin source of Akayu Onsen, it features a drinking fountain with natural mineral spring water—feel free to take a sip if you wish!
Surrounded by Cherry Blossoms: Eboshiyama Park
Picture courtesy of Yamagata Arcadia Tourism Bureau
Perched on the hills above Akayu Onsen, Eboshiyama Park is home to around 1,000 cherry blossom trees that transform the mountain into a sea of pink every spring. Celebrated as the Eboshiyama Senbonzakura (Eboshiyama's Thousand Cherry Blossom Trees), it is officially recognized as one of Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots.
Flower Nagai Line: Home to the Rabbit Stationmaster
To reach Kumano Taisha Shrine and Akayu Onsen, take the Shinkansen to Akayu Station, then transfer to the local Flower Nagai Line to get to Miyauchi Station. From there, Kumano Taisha Shrine is just a 15-minute walk away. After visiting the shrine, you can take a local bus from Miyauchi Station to Akayu Onsen.
Inside Miyauchi Station, you will meet Stationmaster Mochii, a fluffy white rabbit who serves as the iconic official mascot of the railway line. Everyone is welcome to visit and say hello to Mochii, who is usually relaxing in a spacious enclosure. Due to Mochii's advanced age, please remember to speak softly so as not to startle this gentle bunny!
The Perfect Yamagata Getaway
Yamagata’s Kumano Taisha Shrine and Akayu Onsen have grown increasingly popular in recent years. Yet, thanks to their tranquil location, the area remains peaceful and pleasant. If you prefer to avoid busy tourist crowds, this region is a fantastic choice.
Beyond praying for romance, you can make heartfelt wishes for meaningful connections in all areas of life, relax in the hot springs loved by Hayao Miyazaki, and wrap up your journey with a heartwarming visit to the cutest rabbit stationmaster.
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Interview Assistance: Yamagata Arcadia Tourism Bureau
Main image courtesy of Yamagata Arcadia Tourism Bureau
Originally from Chiayi, Taiwan, I majored in history in university. I'm a history geek and otaku living in an old downtown area of Tokyo. I have worked as a journalist for a Taiwanese business magazine, public relations manager for Mos Burger Taiwan, and as a marketer of American skin products in Taiwan. Currently working as a freelance of writer. Visiting castles in my free time.
As a storyteller, I only write about things that I saw, heard, and researched myself. Every word of my articles reflects what I personally thought and felt.
If you have some time, do read some of my stories.
more
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