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"Exploring Retro Tokyo" - Stroll through Nakano-Shinbashi's Kawashima Shopping Arcade, where the Showa era atmosphere still lingers -
We'd like to introduce you to Kawashima Shopping Street in Yayoi-cho, Nakano Ward. It's full of traditional shops, including candy stores, tea shops, and local Chinese restaurants. At the Kawashima Night Market, held in August, you'll be warmed by the smiling faces of children.
I'm Izayoi, a Nakano Tourism Reporter who loves to explore Nakano in the Reiwa era, searching for vestiges of the Showa era. This time, I'll be taking a stroll through Kawashima Shopping Street, where the Showa retro vibe is still strong.
We started at Nakano-Fujimicho Station on the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line. The Fujimicho Building (built in 1965) located right next to the station is almost 60 years old. It is one year older than Nakano Broadway.
The basement is a food and drink district, and the signs have a retro feel.
With the skyscrapers of Shinjuku in the distance, we head towards Nakano-Shinbashi along the Kanda River. Near Nakano-Shinbashi, there was a red-light district that rivaled Arai Yakushi, known as the San'yochi (a district of entertainment for geisha, a teahouse, and a traditional Japanese restaurant). Until the 1960s, perhaps the sounds of shamisen and kouta could be heard here. Although there is little trace of it now, the red railings give a sense of the glamorous atmosphere of the time.
I took a detour to Fukuju-in Temple, located close to Nakano-Shinbashi. The statue of Ugajin in the temple grounds has a mellow face and is very seductive. It is said to be the god of water.
We cross Nakano-Shinbashi again, pass Nakano-Shinbashi Station, and walk up a gentle slope to arrive at Kawashima Shopping Street.
Along the brick road, there are electronics stores, delicatessens, Japanese sweet shops, local Chinese restaurants, etc. The area has a friendly Showa-era feel and has been used as a filming location for TV commercials, dramas, and movies.
They are also working to build a community with the catchphrase "An old-fashioned, lively shopping street," and there is a blackboard in the middle that anyone can use. They also collaborate with universities and companies.
I found a concrete trash can. Until the 1950s, each house had one, but it was converted into a collection center before the Tokyo Olympics in 1964, so it's rare to see one still standing. A true cultural heritage of the Showa era.
The 54th Kawashima Night Market will be held on August 24th and 25th, 2024.
There will be a row of stalls run by the Kawashima Shopping District Promotion Association Youth Division, offering yakisoba noodles, grilled corn, shaved ice, goldfish scooping, shooting games, and more.
It seems that many people return to their hometowns for this day, and it is heartwarming to see the smiling faces of the children and the kind expressions of their grandparents watching over them.
It was a heartfelt event where the shopping district, residents, and local businesses came together. We ate lots of delicious food from the food stalls, and our stomachs and hearts were full.
Kawashima Shopping Street
Address: 3 Yayoi-cho, Nakano-ku
Access: 10 minutes on foot from Nakano-Shinbashi Station on the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line
Nakano city is located in the western part of Tokyo's 23 wards. It is especially famous for Nakano Broadway, known as the "holy land" of subculture, but it also has many other tourist attractions such as historic shrines and temples and gourmet food. While the area around Nakano Station is undergoing a "once in a century" redevelopment, the town is undergoing change, and the town is bustling with old-fashioned, friendly shopping streets, making Nakano a very diverse city. This diversity is also what makes it a city with a population of about 17,000 people from about 120 countries.
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