Okazaki's Culinary Heritage: The 400-Year Legacy of Hatcho Miso and Its Connection to the Shogunate

• Table of Contents
• Day Trip to Okazaki
• 1. Get a First Taste of Hatcho Miso for Breakfast
• 2. Dive Deeper Into Hatcho Miso’s Past and Present
• 3.Okazaki Kakukyu Hachoumura:Enjoy a Lunch Menu Using Hatcho Miso
• 4. Walk to Okazaki Castle and Okazaki Castle Park
• 6. Afternoon Tea Time at Jonantei　
• Conclusion

Day Trip to Okazaki

Nagoya is a well-known city often considered the gateway to the Chubu region. However, Okazaki is situated in the eastern Mikawa region, approximately 40 minutes by train from Nagoya Station and about 70 minutes from Central Japan International Airport, Nagoya (NGO). It provides travelers with the chance to experience the rich history of Japanese samurai culture alongside modern cuisine.Okazaki is a walkable and welcoming city, making it perfect for a day trip focused on its seasonal beauty and local specialty: miso.

At the heart of the city is Okazaki Castle, surrounded by a park that is considered one of the best hanami spots in the country during springtime. The beautifully restored castle is the birthplace of the legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. His remarkable life inspired the award-winning TV series “Shogun,” which depicts the unification of Japan and the beginning of the Tokugawa period.

Within walking distance of Okazaki Castle Park is the renowned Hatcho district, named for its distance of "eight-cho" (approximately 870 meters) from Okazaki Castle. This district is famous as the birthplace of Hatcho Miso, a uniquely crafted red miso believed to be a favorite of the Tokugawa family.

Two publicly accessible miso breweries, Maruya and Kakukyu, continue to produce Hatcho Miso using traditional methods that have been preserved for nearly 400 years. Both breweries are conveniently located on Hatchokura-dori Street and offer informative tours and tasting courses for visitors. 

There are many reasons to visit Okazaki, especially for those who enjoy healthy plant-based meals that shoguns ate during the Edo Period (1603-1868). It’s also perfect for visitors interested in Japanese history and binge-watched the recent “Shogun” drama series.

Here’s an Okazaki day trip itinerary to get you started below!

Getting to Okazaki: Take the Meitetsu Line from Nagoya Station to Higashi-Okazaki Station. The trip only takes about 30 minutes, making it a great day trip option for those staying or flying into Nagoya. 

CAPTION: At Okazaki Castle, where Tokugawa Ieyasu was born, there are enjoyable and interactive exhibits alongside displays of the cultural and traditional industries of this prosperous castle town.

1. Get a First Taste of Hatcho Miso for Breakfast

Firstly, you’ll want to grab breakfast for the day ahead. Head straight for the Hatcho district and seek out Sakura Bakery, conveniently located near Hatchokura-dori Street and Okazaki Castle. This quaint shop serves up some of the most unique bread and pastries in the city.

Their signature bread Komeko Kurumi Miso Pan (rice flour walnut miso bread) has a wonderfully chewy texture and is filled with sweet Maruya Hatcho miso and walnuts. This salty-sweet glutinous bread could almost be mistaken for mochi. It’s the perfect snack for introducing Hatcho miso as a diverse ingredient. Try it with matcha green tea or your morning coffee.

Caption: Komeko Kurumi Miso Pan (rice flour walnut miso bread) has a wonderfully chewy texture and is filled with sweet Maruya Hatcho miso and walnuts.

Another popular item is the Natural Sakura Yeast Bread made with yeast collected from cherry blossom petals from a tree planted during Ieyasu's childhood. Dubbed Ieyasu's Sakura Yeast, Natural Sakura Yeast Bread has a subtle aroma and gentle sweetness. This is from the carefully selected yeast and ingredients that are slowly fermented for about 72 hours before baking. The results are definitely worth the wait!

Sakura Bakery

444-0921 7-18 Nakaokazakicho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture

This shop was opened by Shiki Bakery, which has been manufacturing and selling bread wholesale for many years. They carefully bake products with a focus on ingredients, freshness, and being handmade. The shop is particular about selling bread made with rice flour. The "Rice Flour Walnut Miso Bread" made with miso is particularly recommended.

2. Dive Deeper Into Hatcho Miso’s Past and Present

After being introduced to the taste of Hatcho miso for breakfast, it’s time to learn how this magical ingredient is made and to try the real thing straight from the source. It’s a short walk from Sakura Bakery to two miso breweries that have been producing Hatcho Miso using traditional methods since the early Edo Period (1603-1868): Maruya Hatcho Miso and Kakukyu Hatcho Miso.

CAPTION: The road in the center of the photo is the old Tokaido, flanked by two Hatcho Miso breweries. On the left is Maruya Hatcho Miso and Kakukyu Hatcho Miso is on the right.

*The Old Tokaido: This refers to the road that connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto, which was utilized for the movement of people and goods.
The two factories are located next to one another. This makes it possible to take part in both factory tours to compare the diverse flavors of Hatcho miso in a single morning.

Hatcho Miso is a soy-based miso made solely from soybeans and salt. The name is derived from the fact that two long-established breweries, facing each other across the old Tokaido road, are located in the Hatcho district of Okazaki City. Both have been producing this miso using traditional methods since the early Edo Period (1603-1868).

Furthermore, Hatcho miso is a rare type of miso that has been preserved as a unique food culture in this region.

While miso is typically made using rice or barley koji, Hatcho Miso is made solely from soybeans. This enhances its nutritional value while adding a rich and robust flavor. As a result, the taste differs from that of regular miso, which tends to be sweeter and offers a complex flavor profile with acidity, astringency, and bitterness. 

The delicious taste and nutritional value likely supported the activities of samurai during the Sengoku Period (1467-1603).*Sengoku Period: an era also known as “The Warring States Period,” during which regional warriors or the daimyo (feudal lord) fought amongst themselves for control and governance.

Caption: Maruya Hatcho Miso brewery in the Hatcho district has maintained the traditional brewing methods for hundreds of years. 

Caption: The impressive Kakukyu brewery still maintains the look and feel of another era while updating its facilities with high-tech hand-packing facilities, a historical museum, a fully-stocked gift shop, and a restaurant.  

Caption: Maruya Hatcho Miso wooden casks are filled with fermenting Hatcho miso made from steamed soybeans inoculated with koji mold, salt, and water.

Moreover, these two breweries have been passing down traditional methods that date back to the Edo Period to the present day.

While stainless steel casks have become common in modern times for their convenience, these breweries still utilize massive cedar casks that are about 2 meters in diameter and height. The ingredients for the miso are placed inside these casks. Using traditional methods, the craftsmen stack a total of 3 tons of weight in a conical shape on top. They continue to uphold this age-old technique in their production.

Additionally, this stone piling is balanced so exquisitely that it can withstand significant earthquakes. It is said that mastering this technique takes over ten years. This is also a very important task since any imbalance in the stone stacking could potentially affect the flavor of the miso.

Caption: Miso that is aged at Kakukyu's miso brewery.

Visiting Maruya Hatcho Miso and Kakukyu Hatcho Miso will be a wonderful experience where you can sense the history and techniques that have been passed down from the Edo Period to the present day.

Caption: A tour guide at Maruya Hatcho Miso Brewery explains the traditional fermentation process for making their world-famous miso products.

The factory tour includes an explanation of the production process of Hatcho Miso, a visit to the miso brewing warehouse, and a miso-tasting experience. The miso you taste after learning about Hatcho Miso not only allows you to enjoy its authentic flavor but also offers a unique culinary experience to experience the efforts and passions of the people involved.

Caption: Hatcho miso dengaku (konnyaku) is served to guests during the Maruya factory tour. Both breweries are conveniently located on Hatchokura-dori Street and offer informative tours and tasting courses for visitors. Follow your gut, and learn about this culinary building block of washoku (Japanese cuisine) that even the samurai loved.

During the Kakukyu Hatcho Miso brewery tour, you’ll visit a 400-year-old miso warehouse to learn about Hatcho miso production before tasting a bowl of warm miso soup. This soup is made with Hatcho miso and the other with akadashi*. Once your appetite is piqued, you can indulge in hot, chewy konnyaku topped with miso dengaku, a rich Hatcho miso sauce. 

*Akadashi miso…. This type of miso is created by combining rice miso and other ingredients with Hatchō miso (soybean miso). The result is a rich, umami flavor with a slight sweetness.

Caption: Kakukyu Hatcho Miso hot chewy konnyaku topped with miso dengaku, a rich Hatch miso sauce. Kakukyu’s Hatcho miso boasts a surprisingly complex flavor, featuring a nutty umami that is complemented by a well-balanced bitterness and a straightforward saltiness. It serves as an excellent base for broths and savory sauces. In contrast, Maruya’s Hatcho miso presents a different flavor profile—it's perhaps nuttier, slightly less salty, and more acidic. These differences arise from the distinct koji used by each brand and the shapes of the barrels in which they are made. Visitors are encouraged to try both brands to appreciate their complexity and unique characteristics. 

Caption: Kakukyu Hatcho Miso hot chewy konnyaku topped with miso dengaku, a rich Hatch miso sauce.

Kakukyu’s Hatcho miso boasts a surprisingly complex flavor, featuring a nutty umami that is complemented by a well-balanced bitterness and a straightforward saltiness. It serves as an excellent base for broths and savory sauces. In contrast, Maruya’s Hatcho miso presents a different flavor profile—it's perhaps nuttier, slightly less salty, and more acidic.

These differences arise from the distinct koji used by each brand and the shapes of the barrels in which they are made. Visitors are encouraged to try both brands to appreciate their complexity and unique characteristics.  

Caption: The Museum of Kakyu Miso illustrates the brand’s history of producing Hatcho Miso since 1645.

Caption: Be sure to stop at the Kakukyu gift shop before you leave to find Hatcho Miso ingredients and gifts for your friends and family back home.

Maruya Hatcho Miso

52 Hacchocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture 444-0925

Founded in 1337, it is located approximately 870 meters west of Okazaki Castle along the Tokaido road. The traditional techniques and manufacturing methods of Hatcho miso, which began in the Edo period, continue to be strictly followed to this day. This has allowed the deep, historic, and original flavor of Hatcho miso to be passed down to the present day. There is a direct sales store where you can purchase a wide range of products, including Hatcho miso and sweets made with miso. You can also take a tour of the brewery to learn about the traditional miso manufacturing methods.

Kakukyu Hatcho Miso (Hatcho Miso Village)

69 Hacchocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture, 444-0925

While it was founded in the early Edo period, its history is said to date back to the Sengoku period. As a long-established Hatcho miso store, it continues to use traditional methods to preserve the flavor of Hatcho miso to the present day. In addition to touring the storehouse to see how it is made, there is also a restaurant where you can taste dishes made with Hatcho miso on the spot.

3.Okazaki Kakukyu Hachoumura:Enjoy a Lunch Menu Using Hatcho Miso

Caption: Okazaki Kakukyu Hatchomura is a restaurant that requires prior reservation.

After your tour of the Kakukyu and/or Maruya Hatcho miso breweries, you’ll likely be hungry for lunch. Fortunately, there’s an excellent dining option available right inside the Kakukyu facilities. After your tour of the Kakukyu and/or Maruya Hatcho miso breweries, you’ll likely be hungry for lunch. Fortunately, there’s an excellent dining option available right inside the Kakukyu facilities. 

Caption : Yuma Tempura Miso Stewed Udon, a rich and savory udon noodle dish served with tempura-style yuba (boiled tofu skin)

Caption: Miso Katsu set meal, a juicy breaded pork cutlet served with a healthy topping of miso and sides of shredded cabbage, Hacho miso soup, and a bowl of rice.

The menu features a variety of healthy Hatcho miso-themed dishes, including the popular Yuba Tempura Miso Stewed Udon—a rich and savory udon noodle dish served with tempura-style yuba (boiled tofu skin)—and the Miso Katsu set meal, which includes a juicy breaded pork cutlet topped with miso, along with sides of shredded cabbage, Hatcho miso soup, and a bowl of rice.

Rest assured, you won’t leave feeling hungry.  

Okazaki Kakukyu Hatcho Village (Restaurant directly operated by K...

69 Hacchocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture, 444-0925

This restaurant is operated by Kakukyu Hatcho Miso, the brewery of Hatcho miso. It's located on the Kakukyu premises, so you can stop by after a factory tour. Why not try some of the carefully prepared dishes made by a brewery that knows everything about Hatcho miso?

4. Walk to Okazaki Castle and Okazaki Castle Park

After a delicious miso-inspired lunch, it’s time to take a stroll around the beautiful park grounds that provide a seasonal backdrop to Okazaki Castle, where shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu was born and enjoyed plenty of miso.

Picture courtesy of Okazaki City

The park features a beautiful seasonal atmosphere throughout the year, but it is particularly stunning in spring when cherry blossoms and wisteria are in bloom. It has been named one of 'Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Spots' by the Japan Cherry Blossom Association. 

Caption: The Otemon Gate

Caption: The Ieyasu Clock Tower

Other highlights of the park grounds include the Otemon Gate, statues of the great shogun Ieyasu, and the Ieyasu Clock Tower, which features an animatronic doll of Tokugawa Ieyasu performing Noh. However, the true highlight is the beautifully maintained trees, pathways, and the riverside along the Oto River. 

If you linger long enough, you may have the chance to see the Great Ieyasu Aoi Bushotai, a performing samurai team wandering the grounds in full suits of armor. It’s a wonderful reminder to visit the Mikawa Warriors and Ieyasu Museum. 

Caption: Mikawa Warriors and Ieyasu Museum in the Okazaki Castle Park.

This modern and sleek museum features interactive digital exhibitions that appeal to both adults and children. It focuses on the Mikawa samurai who supported Tokugawa Ieyasu from his birth through the unification of Japan, allowing visitors to explore his character. Guests can view authentic armor and swords, and even try on helmets.

Picture courtesy of Okazaki city

Caption: At the Mikawa Warriors and Ieyasu Museum, samurai armor is on display, and there is a moving diorama theater that highlights the history of Tokugawa Ieyasu's struggles toward the unification of Japan.

The second, third, and fourth floors of Okazaki Castle have been transformed into a museum space filled with samurai armor, weapons, and three-dimensional models of the local area from that period.

Picture courtesy of Okazaki City

Climb to the fifth-floor observatory, and you'll be rewarded with a panoramic view of Okazaki and the greater Mikawa region of Aichi Prefecture.

6. Afternoon Tea Time at Jonantei　

Located within the castle park grounds, Jonantei is a traditional Japanese tea house that serves delicious matcha and Japanese wagashi (sweets), offered both separately and in moderately priced sets.

The main room inside has limited seating; however, there are private rooms and ample outdoor seating that features charming red benches, allowing for leisurely views of Okazaki Castle and the beautiful foliage that changes with the seasons.

Jonantei is the perfect spot to catch your breath after learning about the battles and conflicts that defined the life of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the era of the samurai. So take a moment to relax, enjoy a sip of matcha, and soak in the tranquility of Okazaki Park.

The teahouse closes at 5 PM, just like the park, so it's time to head back to Higashi Okazaki Station or consider enjoying a nice dinner at one of Okazaki’s fantastic restaurants if the city's charm has convinced you to extend your stay for another day.

Okazaki Castle

444-0052 561-1 Yasuocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture

Okazaki Castle is where Tokugawa Ieyasu was born. There are many legends surrounding dragons, and it is also known as the Dragon Castle. It is said that when Takechiyo (later Ieyasu) was born, black clouds swirled above the castle and a golden dragon appeared. The three-story, five-story castle tower was rebuilt in 1959 and is beloved among locals as a symbol of Okazaki City. Due to its historical value, it was selected among Japan's 100 Famous Castles in 2006. It is just a short walk from the storehouse of Hatcho miso, a specialty of Okazaki.

Okazaki Castle Park

444-0052 561-1 Yasuocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture

Okazaki Castle Park is a historical park centered around Okazaki Castle, where Tokugawa Ieyasu was born. In spring, beautiful cherry blossoms bloom along the Oto and Iga rivers, surrounding the park. The park has even been selected as one of Japan's 100 Best Cherry Blossom Spots. Within the vast grounds, you'll find not only Okazaki Castle, but also a shrine and a historical museum. We recommend taking a stroll through the park while immersing yourself in history. The park is just a short walk away from the storehouse of Hatcho Miso, a specialty of Okazaki.

Teahouse Kishoan and Jonan-tei

444-0052 561-1 Yasuocho, Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture

You can enjoy authentic matcha green tea while gazing at the scenery of Okazaki Castle Park and a Japanese garden, which changes with the seasons. You can also enjoy different seasonal sweets with your matcha, allowing you to sense the seasons through traditional Japanese confections.. It is located on the grounds of Okazaki Castle Park, just a short walk from the storehouse of Hatcho Miso, a specialty of Okazaki.

Conclusion

We hope you enjoy your journey exploring Okazaki, the birthplace of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and the hometown of Hatcho Miso. 

Hatcho Miso, a fundamental seasoning in Japanese cuisine closely associated with the great shogun, is deeply embedded in the food culture of Okazaki. By visiting Okazaki, you can learn about the traditional methods of producing Hatcho Miso and experience its rich flavors. Why not embark on a journey to enjoy a wonderful culinary experience in Okazaki?

Access

・Approximately 40 minutes by train from Nagoya Station

・Approximately 70 minutes by train from Nagoya Airport (NGO)