A trip to Aichi, Aichi to understand the origins of Japan's representative "sushi" through "vinegar"

• Table of Contents
• A Closer Look at Handa City, Situated on the Chita Peninsula
• Exploring the Untold Secrets of Sushi at the Mizkan Museum
• Delight in Fresh, Locally Sourced Sushi for Lunch at Uotaro Handa’s Conveyor Belt Sushi
• Savor Sweet Moments During Your Trip: Indulge in Exquisite Desserts at a Cozy Cafe
• Exploring Handa Canal: A Walk in an Enchanting Movie-like Setting
• Explore Handa's Rich Tradition of Fermentation with a Visit to the Kunizakari Sake Museum
• The Evolution of Kabuto Beer: Navigating Ongoing Challenges in Innovation
• In Conclusion

The secret behind Aichi Prefecture’s (Nagoya's) amazing sushi is thanks, in part, to the ingredients produced by Mizkan, a brand founded in Handa in 1804. Their products are irresistible to sushi lovers! By understanding the history of vinegar, you can learn more about the roots of sushi. We will introduce a culinary journey to Handa, where we explore the fermentation food culture of Aichi (Nagoya).

A Closer Look at Handa City, Situated on the Chita Peninsula

The cinematic scenery created by the Mizkan building and Handa Canal.

Handa City is located about an hour by train from Nagoya and approximately 50 minutes from Chubu Centrair International Airport (Nagoya Airport (NGO)).

Historically, Handa thrived as a brewing town, which led to the development of the Handa Canal for transportation. The area still retains a charming atmosphere, with black-walled buildings that evoke a sense of stepping into a movie set. Visitors will be able to feel the ambiance of the past.

Interestingly, the brand Mizkan, which originated in Handa, has played a significant role in the journey of sushi becoming a beloved part of Japanese food culture. It is currently enjoyed by many worldwide.

Now, let's embark on a journey together to explore the roots of sushi in Handa!

Exploring the Untold Secrets of Sushi at the Mizkan Museum

Entrance of the Mizkan Museum

The Mizkan Museum, located right next to Handa Canal, is operated by Mizkan. This company still produces and sells vinegar, an essential ingredient for sushi.

Known as MIM, this museum is designed to allow visitors to "Look, Touch, Enjoy, and Learn" about the 200-year history and philosophy of the Mizkan company. Moreover, this company has made significant contributions to Japanese food. It covers everything from the manufacturing methods and types of vinegar to various aspects of Japanese culinary culture.

With many enjoyable activities for both children and adults, it’s the perfect destination for families traveling to Japan.

Additionally, advance reservations are required for visits to the museum. The museum also offers guided tours where a guide explains the exhibits as you explore. (You can make reservations for museum visits and guided tours here.)

The museum also offers audio guides in multiple languages (English, Korean, and Chinese) that provide introductions to certain areas within the museum.

MIM features separate exhibition spaces organized by theme. 

The Room of Earth

Here, visitors can see how Mitsukan made vinegar during the Edo Period (1603-1868) and how it is brewed today.

The most commonly used type of vinegar in Japanese cuisine today is rice vinegar.

The modern hand-pressed nigiri sushi enjoyed not only in Japan but worldwide originated in the early 1800s during the Edo Period. At that time, it consisted of sushi rice made with rice vinegar and salt, formed with slices of fish. Due to its quick preparation, it was called "haya-zushi" (quick sushi) and gained popularity in Edo.

During this period, Nakano Matazaemon, the founder of Mizkan, sold "kasu" vinegar from Handa to Edo. The rich flavors and umami of the vinegar blended well with the Edomae sushi. 

The Park of Light

In this open, well-lit space, visitors can taste a drink that uses vinegar and learn about the future of food. It was created with consideration for people and the Earth's environment while enjoying hands-on experiences and recreational activities.

Sushi models that resemble works of art. There are 29 types of them, totaling 1,134 pieces.

The Water Theater

This plush theater offers a surprisingly moving film on the connection between our food and our lives. Expressing the link between food and life during the four seasons, the images of beautiful nature, rich culinary culture, and smiling faces at the dining table tug at the heartstrings of viewers. It’s both beautiful and moving!

The Room of Time

This room traces the history of Mizkan's transformation over more than 200 years. The room contains an impressive modern reproduction of the approximately 20-meter-long bezaisen (container ships) used to ship vinegar and other products during the Edo period.

An illustrated video explaining the story of Nakano Matazaemon, the founder of Mizkan, who brought "kasu" vinegar from Handa to Edo and embarked on his journey.

A large screen appears in front of you when you board this ship model. Enhanced by wind effects, it provides a simulated experience as if you are embarking on a journey by sea from Handa to Edo to transport vinegar. This intense experience allows you to glimpse the challenges of overcoming risks and entering a new era.

The Gallery of The Wind

This gallery is comparably more subdued, displaying memories and reminders of Handa’s past, the humble town where Mizkan was founded and nurtured into a global brand.

In Handa, 31 groups in 10 districts have their own dashi floats, with festivals held annually in spring in each district. However, the Handa Float Festival, where all 31 floats gather in one place, is famous and held once every five years. In the Gallery of the Wind, noren (decorative tapestries) featuring the designs of the happi coats from these 31 groups are on display.

From this room, you can view the scenery of the canal, which retains its historical charm. Also on display are photographs depicting Handa's landscape from the Meiji Era (1868–1912) to the early Showa Era (1926–1989).

At the Mizkan Museum, we learned about the unique story of vinegar and the history of the Mizkan company.

Mizkan Museum

475-8585 2-6 Nakamuracho , Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

This is an experiential museum where you can have fun learning about the history of Mizkan's vinegar production and the appeal of food culture. By seeing vinegar production in the Edo period and brewing today, you can enjoy the spirit of manufacturing that has been passed down through the generations. In the experience corner, you can enjoy attractions that allow you to experience the wisdom and ingenuity of Edo period craftsmen and Mizkan's commitment to vinegar production. In the shop, you can purchase limited-edition vinegar that is only available here, as well as fun original goods as souvenirs.

Delight in Fresh, Locally Sourced Sushi for Lunch at Uotaro Handa’s Conveyor Belt Sushi

Uotaro is a conveyor belt sushi restaurant operated by a fresh fish market that has seven locations in Handa City, as well as in Aichi and Gifu prefectures. It offers both conveyor belt sushi and sushi kaiseki options, catering to the demands of many sushi lovers.

The fish served at the restaurant is caught in the waters near the Chita Peninsula and is delivered to the restaurant on the same day.

It is filleted with the skilled hands of artisans and served in a very fresh state. As a result, the artisans select only the highest quality fish. The day's offerings vary depending on the catch, so the menu changes daily.

This restaurant is conveniently located not only near MIM but also close to other tourist attractions in Handa, making it an ideal place to visit. It is perfect for lunch after a long stroll along the canal, which has been used for many years in Handa City to transport delicious vinegar.

Conveyor belt sushi Uotaro Handa branch

475-0873 1-33-2 Nakamuracho , Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

Because we are a fishmonger with auction rights at four fishing ports on the Chita Peninsula, we pay particular attention to freshness, which determines the deliciousness of the fish, and immediately prepare freshly caught fish and shellfish on the premises to make sushi. With the careful skill of our craftsmen who take advantage of the freshness of our sushi, and with the lively spirit of our fishmongers, we create exceptionally delicious sushi. On the first floor, you can enjoy extremely fresh sushi on a rotating sushi bar. The 2nd floor sushi kaiseki offers private rooms of various sizes. It can be used for a wide variety of occasions, including memorial services, celebrations and condolences, business events such as entertainment, and dinners at local gatherings.

Savor Sweet Moments During Your Trip: Indulge in Exquisite Desserts at a Cozy Cafe

The restaurant's popular menu item is the Caramel Waffle.

The interior of Kura no Machi Cafe, located adjacent to Uotaro conveyor belt sushi restaurant, offers a calm atmosphere. It is the perfect spot for a break during your trip.

Additionally, the menu features a wide variety of options, including breakfast, beverages, rice dishes (donburi), and desserts.

On the right is apple cider vinegar mixed with carbonated water, an apple cider vinegar soda. On the left is iced tea combined with fruit pulp and Earl Grey.

The waffles are made fresh to order, creating a wonderfully crispy dough outside and a fluffy inside. A standout drink on the menu is the Apple Vinegar Soda, made with Mizkan's apple vinegar. It offers a refreshing sourness that is both delicious and healthy.

Inside the cafe, there is a gift corner selling local specialties from Handa City and the Chita Peninsula. You can find a wide variety of Mizkan's vinegar and sake made by local breweries. Additionally, they offer seafood tsukudani (simmered fish in a soy sauce, mirin, and sugar that can be preserved for an extended time).

It’s the perfect stop to enjoy a sweet dessert and pick up souvenirs after a wonderful sushi meal at Uotaro.

Kuranomachi Cafe

475-0873 1-33-2 Nakamuracho, Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

This is a cafe with an open terrace built in the style of a storehouse. You can relax and enjoy the terrace seats overlooking the nostalgic cityscape along the Handa Canal. We have introduced a fully automatic machine, one of only a few in the country, that faithfully reproduces coffee as if it were hand-dripped by a barista. Research has been conducted on the ideal brewing time and pouring method for coffee. Espuma's fluffy fresh cream goes perfectly with the crispy waffles, which are baked after receiving your order. It's not too sweet, so it's perfect for a light meal. Inside the cafe, there is also a souvenir shop with Chita Peninsula specialties.

Exploring Handa Canal: A Walk in an Enchanting Movie-like Setting

The area around the Handa Canal flourished with shipping and sake brewing during the Edo period. The shipping industry also became increasingly prosperous with the creation of kasu vinegar. This product is made from reused sake lees that were once discarded during the sake brewing process.

There are many attractive tourist spots along the canal.

Handa Canal

475-0873 Around Nakamuracho, Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

n Handa City, Aichi Prefecture, the brewing industry of sake and vinegar is flourishing, and the blackboard-enclosed warehouses representing the brewing industry still remain along the Handa Canal. Canals opened since the Edo period transported special products such as sake, vinegar, and cotton from the Chita Peninsula to Edo and Osaka. Along the canal, there are blackboard-encased storehouses from the flourishing brewing industry and mansions of wealthy merchants from the early Meiji period, which still retain a strong vestige of those days. Is it like a scene from a movie? Time travel in a time machine? Handa, which is filled with the culture of the Edo to Meiji period, is perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Spot 1: The Former Nakano Hanroku Residence and Hanroku Garden

The former residence and garden of the prominent Nakano Hanroku family, who thrived in shipping and brewing during the Edo Period. It was built in the Meiji Era and is now open to the public.

From the grandeur of the residence and garden, one can gain insight into how the Nakano family prospered in this area and contributed to the local development.

Former Nakano Hanroku House and Garden

475-0873 1-7 Nakamuracho , Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

The Nakano Hanroku family is a prestigious family that has prospered in the shipping and brewing industries since the Edo period, and has contributed to the development of the local area for generations. There are only a few historical buildings left that recall the prosperity of the town of Handa during the Meiji period. After the war, the house was used as a restaurant and inn, and later as lodgings for the Seki stable during the Nagoya Grand Nagoya Tournament. Many local residents were able to see the brave figure of Yokozuna Taiho at Hanroku House, but after this, the gates were closed and the house went to sleep for 30 years. The Former Nakano Family Residence, a nationally designated Important Cultural Property located in front of Meitetsu Chita Station, is a Western-style building that was built at the beginning of the Taisho period and was the villa of the Nakano Hanroku family. Additionally, the Nakano Hanroku family villa is also located in Handa City. At Hanroku House and around the Handa Canal, various events and festivals are held according to the changing seasons.

The exterior of the Baumkuchen Research Institute. Orders can be placed through a small window.

There are two great spots on the premises that I would like to introduce. The first one is the "Baumkuchen Research Institute."

You can place your order through a small window and enjoy drink-sized portions of coffee or tea (only 70 yen per cup!) alongside baumkuchen served in a stick style reminiscent of ice cream. There are two flavors to choose from: O2, which combines local Handa's soybean miso with rare Amazon cacao, and the plain flavor.

At first, I couldn't imagine combining miso with baumkuchen. After taking a bite, however, I found that the aroma of cacao and the savory flavor of miso matched perfectly, creating a delightful taste! I believe it's a unique flavor that can't be found elsewhere. I encourage you to try it for a special culinary experience!

Baumkuchen Research Institute

475-0855 1-7 Nakamuracho , Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

Baumkuchen is made by skilled craftsmen over a period of more than four hours. The eggs used are the highest grade "Premium Running Eggs" from pure domestic chicken "Okazaki Ohan", and the flour used is carefully selected to bring out the maximum flavor of the eggs. Baumkuchen Laboratory's specialty "02" is born, with a richness and flavor that spreads throughout your mouth. The chewy and soft texture makes it feel like you're eating air.

The other recommended spot is HANROK. This local restaurant, well-regarded in Aichi Prefecture, offers a subtly luxurious space to enjoy beautiful French cuisine created by Chef Takanori Suzuki. The chef formerly worked at Les Enfants Rouges in Paris. The dishes feature ingredients and fermented seasonings from the Chita Peninsula.

The space, which has been renovated from half of the old Nakano family residence, allows you to appreciate the history of the building and the beauty of Japanese architecture, making it an ideal place to enjoy delicious cuisine.

This restaurant also offers a gourmet experience to savor the fermented culture of Aichi. To all the food enthusiasts reading this article, I highly recommend you visit!

(HANROK operates on a completely reservation-only basis and advance booking is required. You can make a reservation here.)

HANROK

475-0873 1-7 Nakamuracho, Handa City, Aichi Prefecture

Believed to have been built in 1889, this is the former residence of the Nakano Hanroku family, who prospered in the shipping and brewing industries and contributed to the local area for generations. In a historic and tasteful space that can only be found in this location, you can experience beautiful French solution cuisine using ingredients and fermented seasonings from Chita Peninsula, Aichi Prefecture, with the hospitality that only HANROK can provide. Chita Bijin Soba is grown under the concept of "beautifying people and the environment", using recycled food compost on fallow land on Chita Peninsula, Aichi Prefecture, and the sight of the soba in bloom is beautiful, and it is CHITABIJIN's initiative to have everyone enjoy the delicious soba harvested there.

Explore Handa's Rich Tradition of Fermentation with a Visit to the Kunizakari Sake Museum

The Chita Peninsula, centered around Handa, has a long-standing tradition of sake brewing with a history spanning over 300 years. The museum operated by Nakano Sake Brewery is housed in a building where sake was produced for about 200 years until 1972.

This museum aims to preserve the cultural heritage associated with sake. It features traditional sake brewing tools used before the current factory began operations. There are also displays showcasing the craftsmanship of artisans from that era.

You can sample sake that has been crafted while inheriting traditional techniques and spirit.

It's also possible to purchase sake and other items as souvenirs. How about considering them as gifts from your travels?

If you wish to visit the museum and participate in a tasting experience, it is recommended to make a reservation in advance. While it may be possible to accommodate visitors on same-day visits if there are no other groups, making a reservation ensures that you can secure your experience. Please fill out the necessary information and your preferred reservation date in the inquiry form provided here. (Please note that a response may take a few days.)

Currently, there are no staff members available to assist in multiple languages, including English. However, there are English explanatory videos and brochures available, so you don’t need to worry!

The founding of this sake brewery is deeply connected to Mizkan, which played a significant role in spreading sushi. It began when the Nakano family, who originally produced sake in Handa, transferred their sake-making licensing rights (known as "sakekabu") to the brewery.

With their knowledge of brewing sake and the abundant availability of kasu (sake lees) that serves as raw material for kasu vinegar, it can be said that this environment enabled the mass production of kasu vinegar, which significantly contributed to the establishment of sushi culture. The history of this area is closely intertwined with the history of each culinary tradition.

Kunizakari Sake Brewery Sake Culture Museum

475-0878 2-24 Higashihonmachi, Handa City, Aichi Prefecture Prefecture

With the aim of passing on the cultural heritage of sake, the museum showcases traditional sake brewing tools that were actually used before the current factory began operations, as well as the skills of the craftsmen of that time. Since opening in 1985, it has been visited by many people as a tourist attraction in Handa, and has conveyed the history of Kunimori and the culture of sake brewing. In addition to the exhibits, you can immerse yourself in the culture of sake and deepen your understanding through video screenings and sake tasting experiences.

The Evolution of Kabuto Beer: Navigating Ongoing Challenges in Innovation

The Handa Red Brick Building, built in 1898, was originally a Kabuto Beer brewery. It showcases the pioneering spirit of local entrepreneurs who challenged major production facilities in Japan's early beer industry.

Fans of Japanese anime might recognize the Kabuto sign from the scenery of Nagoya Station in Studio Ghibli's "The Wind Rises" or the building from the third episode of the anime series "Violet Evergarden."

Designed by renowned Meiji-era architect Tsumaki Yorinaka, the building features a unique, multi-layered structure (rare for its time) to provide the stability needed in a brewery.

Kabuto Beer was once a major brewery in Japan and won a gold award at the 1900 Paris Exposition.

While feeling the retro charm of the beer bottle, the elegant label design is truly eye-catching.

After a history of name changes and closures due to wartime and economic factors, Meiji-era Kabuto Beer was revived in 2005, followed by Taisho-era Kabuto Beer in 2016. The flavors from those days have been faithfully reproduced.

It also houses a fully stocked gift shop with all the great wares and beers that made Kabuto a world-famous brand and put Handa beer on the map.

Handa Red Brick Building

8 Enokishitacho, Handa City, Aichi Prefecture, 475-0867

The Handa Red Brick Building was established in 1898 as a Kabuto Beer factory. It was the early days of beer in Japan. The building conveys the spirit of entrepreneurs who boldly challenged major beer manufacturers in an attempt to create a top brand from the regional city of Handa. Very few remains of the beer factory remain, making it a valuable structure. It was registered as a national tangible cultural property in 2004 (Heisei 16), and designated as a modern industrial heritage site in 2009 (Heisei 21). The permanent exhibition room introduces the history of the Handa Red Brick Building and the birth of Kabuto Beer through models, videos, and photographs from the time. You can also rent various spaces in the Handa Red Brick Building for various purposes. At the cafe and beer hall, you can relax and enjoy the famous draft Kabuto Beer and delicious food.

In Conclusion

How was your trip to Handa?

Handa and the Chita Peninsula are undeniably full of history intertwined with craftsmanship. From Mizkan vinegar to Kunizakari’s sake and umeshu (plum wine) to the fine beers of Kabuto Brewery, it’s a place that made a name for itself through self-made creations.

This monozukuri (Japanese word for "craftsmanship") tradition lives on today. A simple walk around MIM and the Handa canals offers an array of places to look, touch, enjoy, and learn. And most importantly, to taste.