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Reliving the Beautiful Scenery of Waka Poetry in the Manyoshu

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Waka poetry is a classical masterpiece in Japan dating back over 1,200 years ago. The most prominent collection of waka poems is found in the Manyoshu: the earliest existing anthology of Japanese poems. Many of the scenery has remained unchanged today, including Wakura Onsen on the Noto Peninsula.

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In Japan, waka poetry is a literary masterpiece dating back 1,200 years ago. The most prominent collection of these poems is found in the Manyoshu: the oldest existing anthology of Japanese poetry. Over 4,500 poems penned by people from a range of social classes are included in this extensive literature collection.

Beautiful Scenery Found in Waka Poems Over 1,200 Years Ago

One of the prominent waka poets in this collection is Otomo no Yakamochi. In addition to allegedly being the editor of the Manyoshu, 473 of his poems are included in the anthology.

Initially from Nara, he came to the Noto Peninsula at the age of 29 in 748 A.D as a government official. He was tasked with governing the area including Noto, where Wakura Onsen (hot springs) is located. Otomo no Yakamochi loved poems and penned many in Ishikawa Prefecture. One of these poems is cited below:

From Kashima
To Kumaki
I am rowing on the boat
No rest
Thinking of the capital

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Because the poems are written in ancient Japanese, many contemporary readers are unsure of the meaning behind these literary works.

According to academics and researchers, this poem can be translated as follows: “Like the boatman who does not rest rowing a boat from Kashima for Kumaki, I think about the capital without rest.”

It is said that Otomo no Yakamochi crafted this poem out of nostalgia for the ancient capital of Nara after arriving in the Noto Peninsula.

Poetry Inspired by the Calm Seas of Wakura Onsen

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In Wakura Onsen, there is a monument engraved with a poem by Otomono Yakamochi.

This poem takes place in Nanao Bay. Kashima is once a port town in Nanao City, where Wakura Onsen is located. The poem was inspired while Yakamochi was heading for Kumaki, a neighboring town of Kashima.

It must have been easier to cross the ocean than travel across land to reach the neighboring town. But the reason why he selected the sea route is easily understood by looking at Nanao Bay.

The sea is very calm. No one could have created such a romantic poem without tranquil waters, right? Since Nanao Bay is an inland sea with a narrow entrance, it is not easily impacted by the wind. This is why the ocean remains calm throughout the year. It is one of the few places in Japan, an island nation surrounded by water, with a serene sea.

The morning calm is the best time of the day. The water's surface almost resembles a mirror. Since there's no gusty wind or rocky waves, it almost feels like time has stopped. It truly is a magical moment.

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Indeed, the sea that spreads out in front of the Wakura Onsen remains the same since the ancient times that the Manyoshu was made. Many poets after the era of Manyoshu have visited Wakura Onsen, and made poems based on the scenery. Why not visit there and make a poem as you look at this beautiful sea?

Sea cucumbers stood as tax!?

There is another thing in this area that hasn’t changed since the ancient times–the sea cucumbers caught in Nanao Bay. At the time when Otomono Yakamochi lived, this food was dedicated to the court as a very valuable ingredient. This product was also used for tax at the time. Otomono Yakamochi must have eaten some of those as well.

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The visual aspect of this animal is quite unique, but it has a crunchy taste to it and is served at meals in Japan. Iriko (いりこ), pickled and dried sea cucumber, konowata (このわた), pickled sea cucumber bowel, and kuchiko (くちこ), dried sea cucumber ovary, are all a little spicy but has very good taste and match well with Japanese sake. If you eat little by little as you drink, the alcohol in the cup starts to seem like the sea of Nanao.

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Sea cucumbers are very popular in China. It is known as quality food, and many people buy them at shops here at Wakura Onsen. There are also sweet and delicious puddings sold at the shops! Sea cucumbers may not look too pretty, but they are very tasty food. They are also good for souvenirs!

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